QuestionQUESTION: model-326437 type-0252-01 code-7711231 14hp briggs&stratton.
HI,I have good blue spark,125psi comp and can put fuel in the cyl and it still will not fire.any help please
ANSWER: Hello Mike:
>>If you have Compression, Fire and Fuel, then Check the Flywheel Key.
>>If the Flywheel Key is Damaged, it will Cause the Plug to Fire Out of Time with the Cylinder During the Power/Compression Stroke and the Engine will Not Run or Even Try to Run.
>>Here is a Basic Instruction File I am in the Process of Making. It will Might Say Mower, but a Snow Thrower/Blower is Powered by the Same Type of Engine, so the Diagnostics are Basically the Same. >>***Here are some Diagnostic Instructions to Do on the Engine to Locate the Cause/Cure for a Hard/Not Starting Engine. This Does Not Include a Problem with the Valves. If I Suspected the Valves are Involved, then a Separate File for the Valves will be in this E-mail. This is a File in the Making, so Any Input is Appreciated.
>>1- Check the Spark. If Not Firing, then Replace the Plug.
>>2- If the Plug is Firing, then First, Pour a Small Amount of Gas (1oz) Into the Carburetor Throat with the Throttle at Full. With the Throttle Still at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor. If the Gas is Free Flowing, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.
>>3- If No Fire at the Plug, then Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire from the Kill Switch at the Engine Stop/Brake Bracket (where the End of the Stop/Brake Cable Attaches at the Engine). Check for Fire. If No Fire, then Remove the Blower Housing and Remove the Ground Wire from the Coil. Check for Fire. If Still No Fire, then the Coil is Bad. *On Some JD Model Mower the Engines Use an Igniter. Remove the Igniter and Coil and have your Local JD Dealer Test them for you.
>>* **On Models with Point Set, the Condenser is Bad and the Point Set and Condenser should be Replaced as a Unit. Make Sure the Point Set Plunger is Fully Extended when Setting the Point Set Gap to .020in.
>>** If there was No Response from the Engine When the Gas was Poured Into the Carburetor Throat and the Plug was Firing, then Check the Compression. If the Compression is Good, the Carburetor has Been Soaked and Cleaned and the Plug is Firing, then Check the Flywheel Key. If the Key is Damaged, then the Plug Firing is Incorrect to the Position of the Piston During the Compression (Power Stroke).
>>*** On the OHV and Some L-Head (Flat Head) Engines there is a Compression Release. The Exhaust Valve Clearance has to be Opened to .020in for the Compression Release Not to Operate; in Order to get a Correct Compression Reading.***
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model (5 or 6 Digits) and Type Numbers (first 4 digits Only). Example: 326437-0252. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Select Sectional Index. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View.
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi John, I removed the flywheel nut and the keyway was loose in the grooves and came out with a pick tool,but both slots were lined up (crank and flywheel)any thing internal for the timing. pointless coil added prier to all this.
thank you.
AnswerHello Again Mike:
>>If the Key was Allowing the Flywheel to Move on the Crankshaft when the Flywheel Nut was Removed, then it was Installed Wrong.
>>Look at the Key and it should be Slightly Wider One Way than the Other. The Key should be Installed so it Holds the Flywheel and Crankshaft Snug and No Motion between the Flywheel, Crankshaft and Key.
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
