QuestionJohn
I seem to be going through a lot of voltage regulators/rectifiers on my
engine. Specifically engine is a model M209, spec 49533. The diodes in the
rectifier/regulator units seem to die. The replacements I buy, according to
my reading of the data on line, are equivalent to the Kohler part number 25-
755-03. It is a three lug aluminum cased unit with lugs labeled AC, B+,
AC. I assumed that it is a half wave rectifier with a voltage limiting circuit
When I received the latest unit that I purchased and before installing it, I used
a multimeter to see what electrical characteristics it had and found, to my
distress, the readings were the same as the one I was replacing and also that
my assumption about a half wave rectifier was not serving me well. I was
looking for a diode check between the AC lugs and the B+ lug to indicate
low resistance in one direction and very high in the other. There is an open
from each of the lugs to the case of the unit. I didn't want to install the new
one if it is faulty coming out of the box and I would have no remedy since it
would be a used electrical device which rarely has a replacement warranty.
Do you have any idea of the readings I should get as I measure the unit? Is
there a site where this information is available? I looked but didn't find. Is
there something that I haven't thought of as I try to determine the health of
the unit?
Thanks for your feedback.
AnswerHello Allen:
>>I Send Everyone to this Site Addy for Stator/Charging Coil and Voltage Regulator Problems. It Explains How to Check the Stators/Charging Coils and Voltage Regulators.
Most Stators can be Tested Using the Guide at the Following Site Addy; For Testing the Electrical (Charging) System on Mowers you can Use this Site Addy; http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=3438&p... and Use the Link for AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Setting Chart.
>>This is for Briggs Engines and Works Well for Kohler and Other Engine OEMs.
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines for Replacing the Flywheel Key, the Stator/Charging Coil/Magneto and the Point Set on Older Engines without Electronic Ign Coils.
>>It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller.
>>Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and and the Jaws of a Standard Puller will Not Fit. On these Type Engines you can Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel.
>>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in..***
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
