QuestionQUESTION: I tried the things you've suggested. I've cleaned the carb, rebuilt it with all
new parts, adjusted the float, everything I can think of. I tried putting some
gas down into the cylinder as well as into the intake. It runs until that gets
burned up but isn't getting fuel from the tank to keep it running. Sometimes
it will backfire or smoke out the muffler like it is about to catch on fire.
Sometimes it will shoot flames out the intake or the muffler. I took the
muffler apart and there is a plate looking thing in there with 2 corners broken
off. Would that affect it. What are some things I could do to help it get gas.
The primer won't pull any gas either.
Brandon
ANSWER: Hello Brandon:
Here is the Original Question and Answer; Expert: John C. Bridgers Sr. - 12/22/2008
Question
I just got a snapper snowblower that didn't run. I've pulled the carb off and
cleaned it. I can tell it isn't getting fuel. When I pull the bowl off gas runs out
so I thin
k it is something with the float or the pin. Runs if I put fuel straight
into the intake. it is a 3201s series 1. It is pretty old. What should I try?
Hello Brandon:
You can View a Breakdown of the Mower at this Site Addy; http://www.snapper.com/manuals/ . Enter your Model Numbers 3201S in the Box Provided and Click Find Manuals. Select Illustrated Parts List from the Manual List Provided. Now Download the Manual for Online Viewing. To View a Breakdown of the Engine/Carburetor, I Require the Make Model and Type/Specification Codes Off the Engine. Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. Even though the Carburetor May Look Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish. I Suggest you Soak and Clean the Carburetor. The Cost of the Cleaning Solution I Use is $30.00us @ Gallon (I Use Gunk). The Gallon Can Comes with a Tray for Small Parts and the Carburetor Fits Nicely. Most Times a Carburetor can be Soaked and Cleaned and with the Float, Needle Valve and Other Carburetor Components being Soaked in the Cleaner with the Carburetor Body; there are No Parts to Replace on this Carburetor. If you Soak and Clean this Carburetor and the Float Needle Valve Still Does Not Stop the Gas Flow Properly, then Purchase a Needle and Seat Kit and Replace it. The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. The Most Common Cause is; The Carburetors Internal Passages are Restricted by Varnish that Gas Forms Over Time. This Varnish is in Layers. To Properly Remove this Varnish you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Following is a General Instruction File for Carburetor Cleaning. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also. The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool. Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable). The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle. Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.*** (Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. ****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine. Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test. If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle. By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting. This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components. If you have Questions, Please Ask. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
Is the Gas Free Flowing to the Carburetor? Have you Cleaned the Gas Tank and Replaced the Fuel Lines? Does the Gas Tank have a Pick Up Tube or is it a Gravity Fed Tank? Snapper Does Not show the Power Plant/Engine Used on this Unit. To View a Breakdown of the Engine/Carburetor, I Require the Make Model and Type/Specification Codes Off the Engine. Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine and Off the Unit, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manuals and Better Assist you. Thanks. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Gas is free flowing and the tank is clean. I think the gas might be a little dirty
and/or old though. I got it running but it will only run on full choke and isn't
quite at full power yet. It revs like gas gets pumped in unevenly. About every
6 revs it backfires. smoke will come out of the intake or exhaust, it doesn'y
look normal and it only does it when it stops/dies. Won't run on anything
other than full choke, dies otherwise. Any solutions? thanks
It is a snapper 3hp tecumseh, model 3201s, 21"
AnswerHi Again Brandon:
I Located a Breakdown of this Unit. You can View a Breakdown of the Mower at this Site Addy; http://www.snapper.com/manuals/ . Enter your Model Numbers (3201S) in the Box Provided and Click Find Manuals. Select Illustrated Parts List from the Manual List Provided. Now Download the Manual for Online Viewing. The Breakdown Shows a Briggs and Stratton Engine (Model #62032-0601-01) or a Tecumseh Engine (Model #AH600-1620) for this Unit. Is your Engine the Tecumseh AH600-1620? Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. I See from the Breakdown that this is a 2 Cycle Engine. 1- Did you Check the Exhaust Port and Muffler? If Either of these are Restricted with Carbon Deposits, then the Engine May Run at Idle but will Flood when you Try to Rev the Engine above Idle. The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated. **Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear. If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off. If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required. 2- Does this Engine have a Point Set Under the Flywheel? If Yes, then if you are Absolutely Sure the Carburetor is Cleaned Properly (Soaked Overnight Required), then the Point Set Requires Replacing. 3- Is the Compression of this Engine at 90 PSI or Less? If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
