QuestionI have a B&S ELS725 26HP twin engine, Model 446777-0126, Type 0244L1. I am using it to replace a 16HP briggs engine on my 1987 Simplicity 6216 tractor. I have two problems at the moment.
1. Both coils are sparking. When I attach the kill wire one side does not spark, therefore there must be a short. Keep in mind the far end of the wire is not connected at the wire harness. I am trying to determine what wire is the proper wire to connect at this point. As I was inspecting the wire, I further caused damage by breaking one of the diodes. If I replace this wire, do you know the part no.? The kill wire has two diodes spliced in it, at the junction before they connect to the coils. I am not sure if my old engine had a similar set-up to kill the engine. Do I need these wires or is there another way to kill the engine when the key is turned off? Could one of the wires on my tractor go to ground instead? How significant are these diodes in the kill wire, can I make my own wire rather than purchase the part?
2. When I start up the new 26HP engine it wants to stay in full throttle. If I lift up the govenor arm it will idle fine. I noticed that there is a small spring (near the bottom) that puts tension on the arm pulling downward, forcing it into full throttle. I removed the spring to allow the govenor arm to move freely. When I start the engine up it will not go to idle, just the weight of the arm pulls itself downward and into wide open position. It seem like there should be a spring in the opposite direction that would pull the arm up vertically to idle, but I see no holes for any spring. The small spring I removed is not to be confused with the large spring that attaches to the govenor arm from the throttle bracket. Do you know of any reason why the engine will not start and allow the govenor arm to go to the idle position? The throttle bracket appears to work fine, i.e. if i hold the govenor arm up in idle position and move the bracket in the direction that the throttle wire would move it, if hooked up, the larger spring wants to pull it downward. I can feel the pulling tension in the hand that is holding the govenor arm. Therefore, I don't think there is a problem with the throttle bracket assembly.
Any help is appreciated.
AnswerHello Michael:
You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model (446777-0126) and Type Numbers (first 4 digits Only). Example: 446777-0126. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Select Sectional Index. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View. 1- I have Never Fully Understood the Reason for the Diodes. I Usually Cut them Out and Run New Cut Off Wires. I have Leads Made Up for the Single Coil and Double Coil Units that are Used to Replace the Leads that are on the Engine whenever 1 comes in with a Problem like yours. The Lead is Simply 2 Wires that Attach to Each Coil and the Other Ends Attach to Each Other and to a Short Lead that is Attached to the Shut Off Wire that Goes to the Shut Off Lug of the Ign Switch. I Do Not Use Diodes in these Leads. A Coil Requires 1 Side to be Grounded (Usually to the Mounting Bolt of the Coil Itself). When the Other Lead from the Coil is Grounded, the Coil will Stop Firing the Plug. A Small Engine is Shut Off by Grounding the Coil/s and Stopping it from Firing the Plug. 2- The Governor System Behaves like an Unending Tug of War between One of Two Governor Springs, which Pull the Throttle Toward the Open Position, and a Spinning Crankshaft, which Tries to Close the Throttle. When the Load on the Engine Increases - a Typical Example is when you Move your Running Lawn Mower from the Driveway to the Grass - Crankshaft Revolutions Drop. But the Governor Spring is Still Tugging, Causing the Throttle Plate to Open. In Response, a Larger Volume of Air-Fuel Mixture Enters the Carburetor, Increasing Engine Speed to Compensate for the Increased Load. The Crankshaft Speeds Up, and the Tug of War Resumes, until a New Equilibrium is Achieved. With Each Change in Load, the Tension Between the Governor Spring and the Load Brings about a New Equilibrium, known as the Engine's Governed Speed. Neither Side Wins until the Engine is Shut Off. At that Point, without the Crankshaft Spinning, the Governor Spring Pulls the Throttle to the Wide-Open Position. Two Types of Governors are Common on Small Engines - Mechanical and Pneumatic. You have the Mechanical Governor. **The Throttle Cable Attaches to the Throttle Control Bracket. The Cable Moves a Slide that Moves a Pivot. The Pivot has the Spring Attached to it and the Other End of this Spring Attaches to the Governor Arm. The Solid Link Connects to the Governor Arm and goes to the Throttle Shaft on the Carburetor. When the Throttle Cable is Moved it Moves the Pivot and the Pivot Pulls the Spring. The Spring Pulls the Governor Arm and the Governor Arm Moves the Throttle Shaft. Usually the Spring is in the Lower Hole in the Governor Arm and the Solid Link is in the Top Hole of the Governor Arm.** If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
