QuestionQUESTION: Hi John,
I have a Troybilt log splitter LS27 Model Series 570 with a Honda GCV160 type N5AF engine. It has been sitting a while and after a hard time getting it started I can consistently start it but it needs the choke partially closed to run smooth. If I open the choke all the way (choke off) the rpms cycle up and down erratically. There is no separate throttle control so I'm guessing it's governor controlled. I have been checking your other answers and am going to guess you want me to soak the carburetor in Gunk cleaner. I also looked for adjustment screws on the carb and they must be well hidden. Please confirm this would be your course of action and also, do I need to get a gasket kit when re-attaching the carb? If so, what is the best way to buy? Also can you confirm the adjustment procedure after re-assembly.
Thank you!
Ed
ANSWER: Hello Ed:
This Engine is Listed as a GCV160A N5AF. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower/Engine at this Site Addy, http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=ASP&lang=EN&TF=Mainfram and Select the Catalog American Honda. Now Select Engine. Now Scroll and Locate your Engine Model. You are Correct. From your Description it Sounds like the Carburetor Jet is Slightly Restricted and the Carburetor Requires Soaking and Cleaning to Correct this Problem. The Cost of the Cleaning Solution I Use is $30.00us @ Gallon (I Use Gunk). The Gallon Can Comes with a Tray for Small Parts and the Carburetor Fits Nicely. Most Times a Carburetor can be Soaked and Cleaned and with the Float, Needle Valve and Other Carburetor Components being Soaked in the Cleaner with the Carburetor Body; there are No Parts to Replace on this Carburetor. If you Soak and Clean this Carburetor and the Float Needle Valve Still Does Not Stop the Gas Flow Properly, then Purchase a Needle and Seat Kit and Replace it. The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. The Most Common Cause is; The Carburetors Internal Passages are Restricted by Varnish that Gas Forms Over Time. This Varnish is in Layers. To Properly Remove this Varnish you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Following is a General Instruction File for Carburetor Cleaning. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also. The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool. Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.*** (Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. ****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment. Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components. If you have Questions, Please Ask. This Carburetor has the Idle Air Mixture Screw Only. The High RPM Air Mixture is Preset when the Carburetor is Built and there are No Adjustment for this. The Following is the Instruction File for Setting the Air Mixture Screws. Any Input is Appreciated. The Procedure is the Same for 1 or 2 Mixture Screws, Just Use the Instruction File and Skip Over the Section with the Missing Mixture Screw. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air (L) and Main Air (H) Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air (H) Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air (L) Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi John,
Your queue fills so fast I didn't get a chance for a follow up yesterday. You're very popular.
Can you comment about my question on the gaskets? If I need to replace, is there a kit? best place to buy? They seem to be ok.
I was able to remove the main jet but could not see how to remove the main nozzle(item 9 on the drawing). Should it fall out after the main jet is unscrewed?
Also there is only one screw (a std pan head)on top of the carburetor and it was seated all the way snug. It doesn't seem like an adjustment screw as it is very loose when not seated. If it were adjusted outward (not snug) it would vibrate out. It is item 15 on the carburetor drawing you referenced. Screws 4 and 6 do not exist.
Thanks for your help!
Ed
AnswerHello Again Ed:
Thanks. I Apologize for the Mistake. The Instruction File I Sent you was Modified and I Must have Erased the Part of it Concerning the Gaskets and Overhaul Kit. Thanks for Bringing this to my Attention. If you are Able to Remove the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable). The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle. The Screw #15 should be Tightened and if Screws # 4 & 6 Are Missing, then you have the Non Adjustable Carburetor. All the Air Mixture Settings are Built Into the Carburetor. If you Soak and Clean this Carburetor and the Engine Still has Carburetor Problems, then the Carburetor has to be Replaced. You can Purchase the Float Needle Kit or a Carburetor Overhaul Kit for this Carburetor at Most Small Engine Service Centers. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Ratings and Comments are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
