QuestionQUESTION: I just installed a brand new B&S I/C 18HP Vertical on my 1995 model 936009 YT13G Ariens yard tractor. This new engine replaces a Tecumseh 13HP OHV #203201A engine w/vacuum assisted fuel pump. Everything runs well except for the new Mr. Gasket 12v Universal Fuel Pump. While all hoses and connectors are new, I believe that the engine is getting flooded because the pump dosen't shut off under pressure. Referring to the original Ariens Electrical schematic, I have 'tap' wired the pump to the ignition switch yellow wire [test light shines when clutch/brake pedal is depressed]. I have tried a few different connection points.
Could the fuel solenoid switch be causing the grief? Where is the best location to connect these two leads?
I was advised by two small engine techs that a 12v generic fuel pump would work fine on a lawnmower - but I am not so sure!
ANSWER: Dave,
When A customer Asks me what is better more power or same I tell them You can always get more power but you get more headaches in doing so.
try replacing the Solenoid but your issue can be with the fuel pressure In this case the 12V pump is not regulating the amount of fuel volume the engine requires.
Instead it is running at a full volume flow for example A B&S 18HP I/C requires an inert flow of 0.75 psi of manual fuel pressure to operate a 12V fuel Pump has an inert flow 5.50psi under power.
Generally your Leads run to the ignition and to the Engine Wiring Harness or to a Ground lead.
your best bet since the engine size has changed is take it in to have the flow regulator set to the correct dial setting so your issues can stop and you can put that machine to work
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QUESTION: The headaches pale by comparison to the quietness and smoother [virtually no vibration!] operation.
I have your response over a few times - but I can't say I fully understand it. To clarify, the new B&S comes with its own proprietary wiring harness. The dual alternator sub-harness connects fine, but then 4 or 5 wires remain in another connector - two of these wires are a GREY lead from the Fuel Solenoid, and a BLACK I suspect comes from the magneto/coil/spark-lead which when grounded stops the engine. If I turn the key to OFF, the engine continues to run normally until I ground this wire out.
Using another 'tap' connector, I connected the GREY Solenoid wire to the same YELLOW Ignition wire mentioned above. This is also the same takeoff point used to power the fuel pump. Would that have any adverse effect?
Could you explain how to 'test' the fuel-solenoid switch?
Lastly and admittedly, I use to own and operate an autoshop [in another life brother!] AND also managed a Lawn Mower shop business many years ago. But I feel pretty stupid that I haven't been able to rectify a fairly simple setup. I have done dozens and dozens of engine conversions and swaps in automotive, so I am sure you can understand how frustrating this is. I have been nearly three weeks w/o my lawns done at a cost of $800. The silly thing is that I own TWO ride-a-mowers and neither are serviceable!
Please reply with some other ideas if you can... really appreciate the 'turn-around' time in answering too.
Dave
AnswerDave,
We are back to square 1 Since the BLACK is the Part of the Cutoff which you have found Out then it should be connected to the ignition itself Connecting the YELLOW Line May Have some affect On this Whole orderal.
I am going to contact The MFR of Mr Gasket About this particular model Fuel Pump Because Normally I use B&S Parts and Dont Use outside parts I am not familiar with Then i will Contact B&S and see exactly what PN# Fuel Pump the would reccommend for this Model Engine Because from what i am thinking Something Is seriously amiss with the wiring of that particular Model FP.
And i know time Is a precious Commodity
Would you happen to have the fuel Pump Model# Because the Way I Understand it is Mr Gasket Co Make Automotive And Pro Fuel Pumps and If this is an Automotive Fuel pump then there is no way to adapt this to a lawn tractor. So now I too am stumped on this issue Dave
Unfortunatly there is no way of telling you what it tests at because each model tractor and solenoid is different but Industry standars say that a Solinoid on a 12Volt system should have a continuity of 9V-11V good 5V-8.5V Bad
I would seriously try to go with the same Model Fuel pump as the one you had
