QuestionQUESTION: This is a B&S engine, number 130292-0159-02 73112107. It is on a Bradford tiller. Bradford was the brand name of W.T. Grant, a now defunct department store. My father bought the tiller in the late 1960's or early 1970's.
It was running fine last year. I couldn't get it to start this year so I changed the points/condenser. When I tried it again, it almost started, sputtering a few times, but that was it.
I opened it to double check the point gap, and found the flywheel key sheared in half.
The point gap was ok. I put in a new key and when I tried to start it again, I thought for sure it was going to start, but it died out again.
Just for the heck of it I checked the key again and found it was sheared in half.
What is the main cause of this? As I said, the tiller worked fine last summer.
I read if the ratchet is not torqued in tight enough to hold the flywheel tight, it could cause the key to shear.
I don't have any way to check the torque. I'm just using a very large pipe wrench. This works fine, but I'm afraid I could over tighten the ratchet and damage something. The flywheel seems tight enough.
A few years ago I replaced the points, etc. and had no problem with the key. I'm really curious what would cause the key to shear so I could avoid this happening next time.
ANSWER: Hello Jerry:
The Flywheel Washer is Supposed to be Placed so the Center of its Convex/Concave Design is Pointing Up. The Flywheel Nut is Torqued to 150 Foot Pounds. I Suggest you Tighten to What you Consider to be Tight Enough and then Tighten the Flywheel Nut 1/2 Turn More. I Doubt you Will Snap Off the Crankshaft Top or Strip the Crankshaft Threads. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi. Back again. You said tighten the flywheel nut.... This engine doesn't have a flywheel nut, just a starter clutch. A torque wrench is used to tighten a nut to the correct torque, but how is that done with a starter clutch where there is no way to use a torque wrench?
I did get the tiller going, as I said before. Next day it almost started, then nothing. I opened it again and found the flywheel key slot was not lined up with the slot in the shaft and thought it was another sheared key. But when the flywheel was taken off, I found the key was ok. The flywheel slid over the key.
Which was is the key supposed to be installed? If looked at from the very end, it's clear the key is not square. Is it installed with the narrowest edge up in the slot or with the widest surface in the slot? I hope you understand what I mean.
ANSWER: Hello Jerry:
There is a Special Socket that is Used to Remove and Tighten the Starter Clutch. However, you can Use a Pipe Wrench and Tighten the Starter Clutch (thats the Old Way of Removing and Tightening the Starter Clutch). The Spark Plug is Removed and a Bolt that has the Same Threads and Diameter of the Spark and 3 to 4 Inches Long is Carefully Screwed Into the Spark Plug Hole Until it Jams the Piston. If the Bolt Does Not Touch the Piston, then Slowly Turn the Engine in the Same Direction you are going to be Turning the Starter Clutch Until it Stops Against the Bolt. Now you can Tighten the Starter Clutch and Not Worry About the Engine Turning. Usually the Key is Installed with the Narrowest End Towards the Engine. If the Flywheel Jumped the Key and Did Not Damage the Key, then the Key was Installed Wrong or the Flywheel was Really Loose. I have Never Seen a Flywheel be Out of Alignment with the Crankshaft and the Key Not be Damaged. As I Say All the Time to the Mechanics in the Shop; Never Be Surprised at Anything you See when Performing Maintenance on a Small Engine. Anything is Possible. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Seems one problem after another. Got the tiller going last week and tilled the garden, but noticed gasoline leaked on top of the tank. There was no gasket under the air filter, so put one on, and replaced the gas cap. That didn't stop the leaking. I finished tilling and shut the tiller off.
When I tried to start it today, no luck. I took the plug of and put a bit of gasoline in, replaced the plug and cranked it a couple times. Nothing. Then I noticed fuel dripping out around the choke.
This engine has a Pulsa-Jet carburetor and the choke is at the very end. I wiped it off and could clearly see fuel leaking around the choke. I presume this is where the leak was while tilling the garden last week. What would cause this?
After putting the gasoline under the plug today, it would not start at first. Then it did start and ran for a few seconds, most likely just from the fuel put in under the plug, so it seems fuel isn't getting through.
I put a new plug in and pulled the starting rope a few times, then checked the plug. It was completely dry. Isn't that a sign that no fuel is getting through, or should I crank it a few more times and check the plug again?
Is there a simple way to tell if fuel is getting through?
What I don't understand is why it ran fine, other than the fuel leak, last week when I tilled the garden, but won't start now.
Thanks for all your help and patience.
AnswerHi Again Jerry:
LOL. Now you See the Problems we Small Engine Mechanics have. No Worries. 1- The Gas Cap Should have a Cardboard or Cork Gasket that Covers the Inside of the Cap and has 3 or 4 Small Vent Holes in it to Allow the Tank to Vent. If the Tank is Not Vented, then the Vubration can Cause Pressure and Force the Gas to be Pushed up the Intake Tube and Flood the Engine or it will Cause a Vacuum in the Tank and the Gas is Prevented from being Pulled Into the Carburetor by the Pump. From your Description it Sounds like the Carburetor Tank Gasket is Bad. I Suggest you Replace All the Gaskets and the Pump Diaphram. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine at this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/doclist.aspx?categ and Enter the Model Numbers (130292) and Type Numbers (0159) in the Appropriate Boxes and Click GO. Then Select Download PDF. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
