QuestionQUESTION: I bought this new about two years ago and occasionaly use it heavily when a tree goes down on my 2 acre yard.
This saw is one of the worst and most troublesome peices of equipment I have ever owned. I had a terrible time starting the darned thing in the beginning as the pull on the rope starter was exhausting. Then again I am an old. guy. After it started it often quite at idle and then was often difficult to start.
Now this spring I am out taking care of fallen trees and the Poulan is starting a bit easier and running fairly good.
After cutting for a half hour with it I shut it down and then could not get it started. I gave up, figuring maybe it would start the next day ok. Wrong! I have now torn the unit down and am befuddled in the fact that it is getting good spark and I even bought a new plug to make sure because there is no way to see the spark happening when everything is connected. I have checked the fuel and everything around the carberator that I can get to and I keep getting spark but no start or even fire. This evening I tried squirting a bit of oil into the cylinder to help with compression, which seems ok to me, but that did not help either. I am uncertain how to take the carberator off the unit so that I can get to the various gas lines. It seems at times that the plug is getting wet but the most telling thing for me has been that when I squirt a bit of starting fluid into the system, I still do not get even one fire. That seems strange to me as that magic stuff has helped me many an other time. Any help or tips will be appreciated.
jerry in Ohio
ANSWER: Hello Jerry:
Have you Removed the Muffler and Checked the Exhaust Port and Muffler for being Clogged with Carbon? If No, then Do so, Please. If the Exhaust is Restricted, you will have the Problem you Described. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower at this Site Addy, http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=ASP&lang=EN&TF=Mainfram and Select the Catalog Poulan/Weed Eater. Have you Checked the Flywheel Key? If this Key is Damaged, the Unit will Fire, have Good Compression and Fuel but can Not Run Due to the Plug Firing at the Wrong Time. I Suggest you 1- Remove the Muffler and Inspect the Exhaust Port for Carbon Blocking the Exhaust Port. Check the Muffler and Spark Arrestor Screen (in the muffler) for Blockage Also. 2- Check the Flywheel Key. ***Remove the Cover that Houses the Starter Assembly. Use a Bolt the Same Diameter and Threads as the Spark Plug and About 3" Long. Thread the Bolt into the Spark Plug Hole Until it Engages the Piston. Slowly Tighten the Bolt Until you have Locked the Piston and it Does Not Move. **BE CAREFUL A LOT OF TORQUE IS NOT REQUIRED PISTON DAMAGE CAN OCCUR IF TO MUCH TORQUE IS USED ON THE STOP BOLT** Now **Remove the Flywheel Nut. Use a 3 Jaw Puller and Attach the Puller to the Flywheel. Look for a Puller with Flat Jaws. These Slide Under the Flywheel and Allow for Easier Removal. Tighten the Puller and then Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Tighten and Hit Again Until the Flywheel is Loose and Can be Removed from the Crankshaft. Note the Key that Aligns the Flywheel to the Crankshaft. This Key is Most Likely Sheared or Bent and Causing the Plug to Fire Slightly Out of Time and Causing a Compression Lock. There is Not Enough Compression to Kick Back But Enough to Cause the Engine to Seem to Have High Compression. Sometimes the Engine will Turn Correctly and Just Not Hit and Run.*** 3- Clean the Carburetor. **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.** From your Dsecription, you have the Saw Disassembled Enough that Doing the Above Maintenance will Make this Like a New Saw. I have Several Poulan Saws and have Never had the Starting or Idling Problems you Described. It Sounds like the Carburetor Air Mixture Screws were Improperly Set at the Factory and were Never Reset. Here are the Instructions for Setting the Carburetor Air Mixture Screws. This should Correct the Starting Problems. Also, to Better Start Any Small Engine; Hold or Set the Throttle and Set the Choke. Turn the Engine Until it Fires. Now Move Choke to Half Open and Turn the Engine Again and it should Start after 2 or 3 Pulls. Allow to Idle for a Few Minutes and then Move the Choke to Full Open. Now you should be Ready to Operate the Unit. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John (in WV)
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi John,
Many thanks for you fast reply to my question concerning my 14 inch Poulan chain saw. Your answer was very thorough and succinct and I have printed it out so I will have it to refer to. I also very much appreciate the site you gave me where I was able to bring up exploded views of what I think is the model saw I have. These are so very helpful for tearing down a strange piece of equipment and also putting it back together.
I must say I have tried twice in the past 15 hours to get back to you but you have been maxed out apparently. This seems like a poor system to have and especially for someone who is going to need multiple emails to get their problem solved. Don’t mean to complain, this site does seem pretty cool to me. People helping people.
I am gong to admit right now that I am so tired of all the problems this saw has given me, and now with it not working at all, that yesterday I went out and bought a Stihl 14 inch chain saw and did my first sawing with it last evening, and all I can say is ---WHAT A SAW! Twice the price but ten times the speed and efficiency. Needless to say I still want to get the Poulan back in running condition and always enjoy fixing things.
The Poulan saw is only two years old and I doubt it has more then 20 hours of running time on it. I have already inspected the exhaust screen and it was clean as a pin. I should ad here that when this saw was very new it burned up the kick back mechanism through no fault of my own and when I went to Sears to get it taken care of they gave me such a hard time I took it back home and tore it down and simply removed the mechanism that was all melted and sticking to frame. I know this causes the chain to have to be moved when starting the unit and one has to be more careful, but at 78 years of age, I am plenty careful. Just thought I would mention this in case you feel it has a bearing on my problems.
The next and last thing I have done at your suggestion is pulled the fly wheel off the crank. I was very careful as I removed the flywheel and the fist thing I noticed when it was clear of the crank was that there was no key in the keyway in the cranks shaft. I closer inspection I found two groves in the flywheel that seem to fit like a puzzle when you put the flywheel back on the crank. I took some measurements with my calipers that the diameter of the flywheel opening at its widest end was about 50 thousands of an inch greater at the section between the two grooves. I also notice there is no mention of a key for the crank in the diagrams I printed out??????
I find it difficult to believe that the problem is in the carburetor but then what the heck do I know. I think the saw is getting gas as each time I give it a few test pulls to see if it will start there seems to be wet on the plug when I inspect it????? That will be my next attempt but not until I hear from you Thanks again for your help.
jerry
AnswerHello Again Jerry:
If there is No Flywheel Key, then Check the Flywheel Itself for the Keys to be a Part of the Flywheel Unless this is the Grooved Style Flywheel and Crankshaft. If this Uses a Key, Is it Still there? If No, then you will Require a New Flywheel. I have been Noticing on the Newer Saws and Trimmers that the Key is a Part of the Flywheel or the Flywheel and Crankshaft have Matching Grooves. This is Another Money Angle the OEMs have Come up with. Now if the Saw Kicks Back and Shears the Key or Damages the Flywheel you have to Purchase a New Flywheel. More Money for the Flywheel than a .25 Cent Key. The Carburetors are Really Sensitive and the Air Mixture Screws Must be Set Correctly. Also, I am Glad you Like the Stihl Saw, However, Just Wait Until you have to Purchase Parts. LOL. Costly Also. I Like the Husqvarna Brand and Use the Smaller Poulan Saws for Trimming Up in the Trees Due to the Light Weight and Ease of Starting. Thats Why I Felt the Air Mixture Screws were Out of Adjustment from the OEM. I have had to Reset these on Every Poulan I have Purchased in the Last Few Years. I Did Not Look the Breakdown Up so I Failed to See this had the Newer Flywheel. I Apologize for that and will Make the Changes to the File. As for the Kickback, I Understand your Problem. Trying to Get Good Service is a Pain Anymore. I have Found that Like the Air Screws the Kickbacks on Most of the Saws Manufactured are Not Set Correctly from the OEM. If you Used the Stihl and had No Problems, then you Got Lucky. This Site is Designed to Allow the Expert to Answer No More than 15 Questions a Day to Prevent the Expert from Being Overwhelmed. I Usually Max Out within 2 Hours of My New Day. That is the Reason for Adding the Time at the Bottom of All my Correspondence. It Lets the Questioner Know Why I am Not Available and When to Ask or Send their Next E-Mail Response. Thanks for Using All Experts and the Good Words. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
