QuestionI have a 2002 yard machines riding mower with a single cylinder B&S model 31H707 type 0212E1 code 020525ZA. I'll give as detailed a history as possible:
Last summer just before the drought, it didn't want to crank. I immediately thought it was the battery and got out my handy charger/starter. Still no crank. Thinking my charger/starter may be on the fritz I jumped the battery from my running truck. Lo and behold, it was slow to crank for a sec, but then it started. A few seconds after starting it belched smoke and died. Several tries produced the same results. After research on the web, I was led to check the oil, and you guessed it, gas in the oil. SO based on my research it sounded like gummed up needle in the carby so I drained the gas and put it away with the intent of trying the carby clean job myself. Due to the drought, I really didn't need it the rest of the summer so it sat through the winter. Never got around to cleaning the carby. (Looking back I realize that I should have drained the oil as well...) So this spring, I contacted a few local shops asking if they would clean/rebuild the carby and found out that it was cheaper to buy a new one and install it myself. With the new carby installed, new oil in the engine and fresh gas, I went to start and received a clicking noise from the solenoid. After following the advice you gave in another post (Many thanks) I determined that 1) dead battery and 2) bad solenoid connection to ground. Cleaned the connection, replaced battery and no more clicking, but the engine still won't crank. I noticed it was very hard to turn by hand for about a full turn and then would turn easily for a few turns. Pulled the spark plug and it's magically easy to turn. STRONG gas smell and the plug was DRIPPING wet. So I figured still some gas left over from the bad carby problem. Based on info from another site, with the sparky plug removed and the fuel valve closed, I cranked the engine several times, waited 5 minutes and repeated until I didn't see the white mist shooting out the spark plug hole. While it was out I checked the plug for good spark - it was bluish, but I think I'll replace anyway. So... replace the plug, turn the ignition, and I get about 2 revs from the starter before it quits cranking. It's hard to turn again. For fear of gumming the new carb and/or flooding, I left the fuel shutoff in the off position. At the moment I have 2 specific questions, but any advice would be helpful. 3) I read that it may be the timing based on a Key, I know what that is from old pull start mowers, but don't know where to check it on this engine and B&S wants $15 for the illustrated parts manual. I believe that it is under the metal (flywheel?) that is under the screen that I was using to turn the engine by hand. I remember that on the pull start mowers the flywheel is very difficult to remove so I'm asking before I go to the trouble.
2) Is there some carby adjustment I should have done on the new carby that may be causing flooding and thereby vapor lock?
3) I saw another post by you stating that it may be valve alignment. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but have never done anything similar to a valve job. Is it something only for experts, or can a moderate level mechanic handle? I have a fried whose done such things for his cars b4, so I may have him assist.
I apologize if this post is overly long, but I'd rather give too much rather than too little detail. Thanks in Advance
-another John
AnswerHello John:
I would Rather have Too Much Information than Not Enough. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Unit at this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/doclist.aspx?categ... and Enter the Model Numbers (31H707) and Type Numbers (0212) in the Appropriate Boxes and Click GO. Then Select Download PDF. From the Breakdown I see this is an OHV Engine and from your Description I Suggest you Reset the Valves. **I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best. Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines). Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center (Both Rocker Arms will have Play in them when the Engine is at TDC) on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Locks and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .007in - .009in. I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.** They are Set Just like an Automobile Engine that has Solid Lifters. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
