QuestionQUESTION: Hello,
I have B&S 18HP model 42A707 type 2238 E1 style 0006125A with one thrown rod and a cracked crankcase cover. Also the crankshaft is now jammed (cranked the starter before I realized there were pieces of rod rattling about.) I have removed the cover and the head from the damaged side.
1) I tried to drop the sump but can't get it to budge after removing the obvious 8-9 bolts. Is there a trick, or just really good gasket sealer? I assume I'll need to open it in order to unjam it, clean it and be able to attach the replacement rod.
2) The parts catalog talks about standard and oversized pin-piston,but which do I need? (mine doesn't look damaged, can I get by with the original?)
3) The parts catalog talks about standard and undersize connecting rod, but again which do I need?
Thank in advance for your expertise and assistance. Any additional advice or tips you'd care to share would be appreciated.
Regards,
Frank
ANSWER: Hello Frank:
Make Sure you have All the Bolts Removed from the Sump/Oil Pan. Lightly Tap the Sump/Oil Pan Away from the Block. The Dowel Pins Usually Hold the Sump/Oil Pan Tight. Sometimes I have had to Use a Gasket Scrapper to Wedge Between the Sump/Oil Pan and the Block to Get the Sump and Block to Seperate. Until you are Inside the Engine and Have Inspected the Crankshaft, can you know if you Require Undersize Parts. Why Did the Conn Rod Break? Is the Crankshaft Smooth. Is the Crankshaft Diameter Egg Shaped? Is the Cylinder Damaged? Has this Engine Ever been Rebuilt? You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model (5 or 6 Digits) and Type Numbers (first 4 digits Only). Example: 42A707-2238. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: John,
Thanks for the quick reply. I was able to get the sump pan off with some gentle persuasion, thanks to your tip. And also I now understand when undersized parts might be required. To answer your question about damage, the insides of the cylinders seem ok as does much of everything else. The crankshaft appears fine everywhere EXCEPT where the broken rod had been connected. I can feel some nicks there. Think I can clean those up with emory cloth? I also see about 1/2 the fins on the oil spash gears are broken.
I suspect the rod failed because the engine was low on oil. The engine has worked like a champ since day one up until now, never rebuilt. I'd consider a replacement engine or even just buying a whole new mower if the repairs on this one start mounting both in cost and time/effort.
I've also started investigating a replacement engine. One web site said there wasn't a drop in replacement, but I'm crossing my fingers that they might recommend one that is similar enough (and affordable). I'm reluctant to spend too much money on an older riding lawn mower. And even if I can get away with just a rod and crankcase cover, I'll have to get info on setting the cam shaft at the proper alignment to the crank shaft, etc.
1) Do you think I will need to have the crank shaft turned, or buy a replacement?
I guess I'm trying to weigh between the cost and time of repairing this engine, getting a new engine, or getting a whole new mower. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Frank
AnswerHi Frank:
I havent Forgotten you. I am Checking Into the Replacement Engine or Short Block. I have Found that Even though they Do Not List a Replacement Engine. Sometimes Briggs Does have a Replacement that is Not Listed. As Soon as I Hear Back from my Contact at Briggs and Stratton, I will Follow up to you. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
Hi Again Frank:
Sorry for the Delay. High Winds Downed Trees and my Electric and Phone Service has been on and Off. More Off than On. Briggs has a Site that you can View Replacement Engines. With a Little Information From your Old Engine, you May Locate a Drop In Replacement using the Catalog. Here is the Addy to Get to the Catalog. http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=1487 . I Suggest you Purchase a New Conn Rod and Crankshaft is Required. Depending on the Condition of the Unit, I Usually Suggest Repairing/Replacing the Engine if the Unit is in a Condition that would Warrant the Cost. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
