QuestionQUESTION: John,
I recently came across a JD 425 with a KAW FD620D just turned 1000 hrs in need of considerable attention. I found it with fouled plugs and fuel in the crankcase and 3/4 tank of gas. I changed the oil and cleaned the plugs and had it started within an hour. Ran fine at low idle, but sputtered at high idle. I then proceeded to clean the heavily soiled engine with degreaser and a garden hose spray. I found the fuel shutoff solenoid lead wire twisted and exposed. The insulation was brittle and cracking off (possible overheat?) The engine would no longer run. I replaced the Fuel shutoff solenoid, ignitor and the time delay module and the tractor runs like a champ. Upon cleaning the garage floor, I found a copper crush washer, which I suspect may have come off the FSS during a previous removal, and stuck in the grime on the engine. I cleaned and installed it with the new FSS. I installed new spark plugs and a fuel filter. Tractor runs great, starts on the first attempt, but backfires thru exhaust even though it runs for the additional 2 seconds beyond shutoff. Found out from the local JD dealer that the machine has an updated cam and recent water pump with radiator. The coolant looks brand new (green) and is full to the indicator. I suspected the temp indicator may be malfunctioning, as it has not moved beyond the first mark, but my current issue leads me to believe that it is working.
I have plowed and blown snow twice with this machine so far in Midwestern weather. The last time, after about an hour of blowing snow, the tractor suddenly sputtered and lost power. I could barely push snow, and could not operate the snow thrower. I could barely climb a hill. I took an IR temp reading of the engine, found the cyl heads at 97 deg F, and the muffler at over 500 deg F. Oil level and quality on the dipstick looked good, however, upon opening the air cleaner case, I found a white, milky substance (water) blown out of the crankcase vent. I opened the valve covers and found the same coating in there. I drained the oil and found it to be a dark, thin, fuelish looking liquid, with occasional beads of oil. The dipstick indicated clean oil prior to the draining.
My questions are-
Given the history of this motor, am I progressing, or regressing?
What is the best way to clean the remaining water in the crankcase (it is currently draining overnight after running 1 hr)?
Is there a way for me to have sprayed water into the crankcase during the cleandown, given that the radiator level has remained constant, or should I be looking for a block/coolant leak (all caps and covers were in place during cleandown)?
Given the ease of starting, should I condemn the 3/4 tank of existing gas? Could the water be coming from there?
I also have a 445 with Fuel injection. Its' fuel pump shuts off upon pressurization. I have received conflicting opinions as to whether the 425 fuel pump shuts off, or runs constantly. Mine runs constantly. I am considering replacing the float needle, as it seems to have a mark in it, but at this point, only if there is a possibility of improvement for this engine.
Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
ANSWER: Hello Chris:
1- JD 425: The Water Droplets can be from Condensation. If an Engine Gets Gas Into the Crankcase, the Engine Tends to Sweat Inside the Crankcase for a Few Oil Changes. For the Power Loss; Check the Valve Clearance, Compression and the Carburetor. When was the Carburetor Last Given a Good Soaking and Cleaning? The Gas Should be Good, I would Not Waste it. If the Coolant Level is Holding the Same Level in the Cooling System, then there Should Not be a Blown Gasket or Seal. If a Seal or gasket were Blown, then the Coolant Level would Drop or Oil would be Mixing with the Coolant. 2- JD 445: The Fuel Pump on this Engine is Designed to Run Constantly. There is a Pressure Regulator that Regulates the Fuel Pressure. If the Fuel Pump is Shutting Off Once Pressure is Achieved, then the Pressure Regulator or the Fuel Pump May Require Replacing. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine and Mower at this Site Addy, http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.H and Enter the Model Numbers and Click Find. Then Select the Sectional File. Then Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View Online. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: John,
Thanks for the encouragement regarding the condensation. Turns out, the fuel gauge is stuck at 3/4. The fuel has run out, and refilled with fresh gas. I changed the oil and replaced the filter, and the tractor is strong as ever. I put 3 more hours on it without incident. I suspect that the crank case keeps flooding, and the last time I may have simply lost compression once the oil thinned. I have noticed that the dipstick keeps getting blown out of the dipstick tube about an inch. It continues to do so, and this last time I found the underside of the hood and the muffler cover coated in oil. Would this indicate a ring blowby issue, and would heavier oil help or is this a PCV valve? I have been using 5W30 although 5W20 is recommended for winter and 30W for summer.
I am picking up a new float kit tomorrow, although one JD dealer tells me that there is one kit with a rubber tipped needle that fits all JD425's, while another JD dealer tells me that there are engine model specific kits. I would usually opt for the engine specific kit, but the label has been removed from my engine. Is there a way to identify engine model from a JD tractor SN? Hopefully this will eliminate the flooding issue.
Regarding the fuel pump, When I bought my 445 10 years ago, the dealer instructed me to turn the ignition key to run until I hear the fuel pump shut off (about 3 seconds), and then turn the key to start. The pump on the 425 seems to run constantly, so I thought that might be contributing to the flooding. Hopefully that's taken care of with the float kit.
What is your experience with Tuff Torq transaxles in a JD 425, 445, 455? My 445 lost reverse. I found the transaxle to be about 2 quarts low on fluid, and about 200 hrs overdue for a fluid change. I changed the filter and oil but cannot seem to restore reverse. With the tractor elevated, I get both directions, but once on the ground, the tractor will only move forward. Forward downhill the tractor will freewheel, and backwards downhill it will limit speed via the transaxle. I have tried Tuff Torq's purging procedure, with no luck. Every time I open the dipstick, I can hear a release of air pressure. I have also noticed a difference in operation of the tow valve between the working trans and the one with no reverse. The tow valve on the good one will stay up on the first attempt, where the tow valve on the one lacking reverse requires two lifts to eliminate the "return" and stay in the up position. Any thoughts?
Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
ANSWER: Hello Again Chris:
1- Sometimes the Carburetor Kit with the O-Ring Seat is Required to Stop the Gas Leaking Problem at the Carburetor. The One Piece Needle Uses the Carburetor Body as a Seat. IF the Carburetor Body Seat Becomes Damaged, then the 2 Piece Needle and Seat Kit is Required. The O-Ring Seat is Pushed Into the Carburetor Inlet Port where the Float Needle Goes. This Replaces the Carburetor Body Seat with a Flexible Seat that the Matching Needle can Seat Better on. Install a Manual Cut Off Valve in the Fuel Line and Manually Turn Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor whenever the Engine is Not in Use. This is the ONLY SURE WAY to Stop the Gas Leaking into the Carburetor and Engine Crankcase. 2- Most Fuel Pumps Run Constantly. Some Engines were Designed with a Fuel Pressure Sensor that Turned the Pump Off when the Correct Fuel Pressure was Obtained. If the Throttle Body has a Return Line for Fuel, then it Most Likely is a Constant Run Pump. If the Fuel Pump for a Carburetor Engine has No More than 10 PSI Pressure, then the Carburetor Needle Valve or Seat is Bad and Not Stopping the Gas Flow Into the Carburetor Properly and Requires Replacing. I Suggest you Use the 2 Piece Needle Kit (one with the O-Ring Seat). 3- As for the Crankcase Pressure Build Up, Check the Crankcase Breather/PCV. If the Crankcase Breather/PCV is Not Operating Properly it will Cause the Dip Stick to be Pushed Out as you Described. Also, if the Engine has a Blown Head Gasket between the Cylinder and the Push Tube Galley, the Crankcase Pressure will be too High from the Compression Pushing by the Push Tubes Into the Crankcase. DO NOT USE a Heavier Oil. The Oil you are Using is Fine. A Heavier Oil will have Trouble Lubricating the Internal Machined Components. The Problem Should be the Crankcase Breather/PCV or Head Gasket. There Should be Crankcase Pressure and this Pressure is Regulated by the Crankcase Breather/PCV. 4- The Tuff Torq is a Good Transaxle. If it was Run Low on Oil, then Most likely the Control Valve has Frozen Due to Burnt Oil Coating the Valve Components and Not Allowing the Fluid to Flow Properly. Usually I Disassemble, Inspect, Soak and Clean the Transaxles Internal Components and Replace Any Component that Looks Worn. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Replaced the existing rubber tipped float needle with a new rubber tipped float needle and float. Old one had an indentation in the rubber and the float was set incorrectly. Tested compression, and found 190psi on cyl #1 and 185psi on #2. This was dry test only. Spark plug on #1 was dry and white, while #2 was dry and carboned. Oil quality seems OK after 3 hours, but dipstick popping out still concerns me. Cylinder seemed to hold compression while the gauge was on. Is a wet test worth performing? I want to replace the crankcase vent/PCV valve, but I can't seem to locate it. Is it externally accessible, or does anything need to be removed or opened up? I have the engine service manual online from buykawpower.com, but it only shows a parts breakdown, not a detailed location.
On the Tuff Torq transaxle, are you referring to the forward control/tow/relief or the reverse/tow valves, or some internal control valve like the anti cavitation valve? I want to disassemble as little as possible of this transaxle.
Your help has been great, thank you very much!!
AnswerHi Chris:
Sorry for the Delay. I had to Purchase a New PC and then Switch my Files and Records from the Old One. At the JD Site Addy, Look at the Breakdown for the 425 and Select the Cylinder Head and Crankcase File. Number 3 Should be the PCV and the Cover # 7 has to be Removed to Clean/Replace the Valve. If the Transaxle is Showing Signs of Burnt Oil, Usually Cleaning the All the Internal Components is Required. I have Tried Removing and Cleaning Just the Control Vlaves and this Does Not Always Correct the Problem. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
