QuestionQUESTION: hi John , Im still having problems with getting my simplicity 4212 to start
I tried to remove the seat in the bowl area of the carb as you said but coud not get it out so i bought a new carb and installed it
stilll same thing , it coughes alittle but now wont start at all. i adjusted the set screws 1 and half out and override the govener arm but no good
it seems im getting spark , i do get a reading on my meter when its cranking
i was so sure the new carb would have it running like new again but no good
just a reminder it a 4212 12hp i/c
model 281707 0125
i installed the 491031 choke a matic carb
before that, as i advised in my first question ,
it would run for a few minutes then die
now it just cranks and coughs alittle
im at my wits end so before i take her out behind the barn
and put her down please help
john
ANSWER: Hi Again John:
Have you Checked the Flywheel Key? What is the Engine Compression? Have you Checked the Fuel Pump? Is it Pumping Fuel? You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model and Type Numbers. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Im not sure how to check the flywheel key
im getting good compression i think
it blows out of the cylinder hard with
plug removed
it does not use a fuel pump its gravity feed
but i am getting fuel
when it happened i was cutting grass and it stopped as if
it run out of gas , i didnt hit anyhting but ill
try to find how to check the key anyway
it was running so prefect prior to it stopping
i could bump the key with no choke and it would start
thats whats driving me crazy i dont get it
ill also try to get a compression reading to
ANSWER: Hi John:
To Check or Replace the Flywheel Key; Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. **BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. The Flywheel Key Lines the Flywheel with the Crankshaft. It is Torqued to 160 - 190 Inch Pounds. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi John
i checked the flywheel key its good
however after further checking
i determined that it seemed to be possibly
in the wiring so i took all the plastic
housings off and checked the wires with
a ohm meter accidentially discovering
that when i removed the kill wire from the
coil she fired righht up as before with a
bump of the key. the engine ran alittle rough
until i adjusted the carb as you described
in an earlier post. now she runs as smooth
as before in low idle or high rpm
only problem is i have to kill the engine
by grounding the coil kill wire manually.
what should i check to fix this , so it will
turn off at the key ?
the ignition switch is new.
also after gettting it going it sounded like
somehting was grinding
after removing the started cover i discovered the
pastic starter gear was being stripped
i didnt remove the starter or any part of it ,
so i diont know if i just damaged the gear trying
to start it so many times or if somehting got out of line
anyway , im close , at least it runs great again
thanks for your help
john L
AnswerHi John:
Great!! You Got it Started. Now for the Safety Switche Problem. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY. I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). Check the Clutch/Break and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Go to this Site Addy,
http://www.jackssmallengines.net/parts.asp and Select
Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab
and Enter the OEM Simplicity for the Mower Parts and Briggs and Stratton for Engine Parts) and the Model Numbers.
Now Double Click on your Model in the Results Area. Using the Series Model you Sent me there are 30 Models in this Series. Select the Model for your Mower and you can View a Breakdown of the Mower and Engine and Use the Breakdowns to Replace the Starter Gear. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
