QuestionHi John,
Based on past answers that you provided, I diagnosed my no-start condition, and have removed and dis-assembled the Carburetor to clean it. (already changed the plugs and determined that there is current going to them, and did the 1 ounce gas test into the throat of the Carburetor)
Two questions about taking the Carburetor apart:
There are hard plastic bushings on it that control the choke flap. An instruction manual for the Nikki Carburetor recommends _against_ using strong Carburetor cleaners, since those bushings are not removed for cleaning.
Question 1
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You always recommend an overnight soak in Gunk. The Nikki manual recommends Mineral Spirits so as not to degrade the bushings. Do you have any comment about this? Is there a way to remove the bushings so I can use the stronger solvent? Are Mineral Spirits adequate?
Question #2:
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I can't remove the shut-off solenoid from the bottom of the Carburetor bowl. Any recommendation how to do this? Do I really need to soak and clean the bowl?
Thanks very much, for your past answers as well, which were very educational!
Engine: Briggs & Stratton 406577-0139
Intek 20 HP OHV
Carburetor: Nikki Model 697722
- Leo
AnswerHello Leo:
Remove the Screws that Hold the Choke Valve (flap) to the Choke Shaft. Lift the Choke Shaft Out of the Carburetor Housing and Remove the Bushings. Please Note: *THE BUSHINGS ARE PART OF THE REBUILD KIT # AM117347.* I have Used Mineral Spirits and have No Luck with it. Carburetor Cleaners Such as Gunk and Sea Foam are the Only 2 Cleaners I have Used that Really Clean a Carburetor Properly. The Solenoid Screws Into the Bowl. The Solenoid can be the Reason for the Engine Not Getting Gas Also. If the Solenoid is Not Moving or is Not Moving Enough to Allow the Gas to Flow to the Carburetor Jet, then the Engine will Start and Run a Few Seconds like the Carburetor Requires Cleaning. I Always Suggest Removing and Checking the Solenoid First Before the Carburetor is Removed and Cleaned. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 3/4" Long. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid. ***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES*** Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jets. Yes the Bowl Needs to be Soaked and Cleaned as Well as the Other Components of the Carburetor. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model and Type Numbers. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower at this Site Addy, http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.H... and Enter the Model Numbers and Click Find. Then Select the Sectional File. Then Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View Online. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
Hi Leo:
I Just Read your Post. Yes that Cleaner will Work as Well as the Gunk. Thanks for the Good Words. If you Did the 1 oz Gas Test and the Engine Started and Quit, then Fire at the Plug is Not the Problem. However, here is the Coil/Igniter/Ign Module Diagnostic Instructions for Riding Mowers. **Remove the Spark Plug. Wrap a Wire Around the Threads and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block Turn the Engine and See if the Plug Fires. If No, then Disconnect the Shut Off Wire at the Control Bracket First, Check for Fire at the Plug. If Still No Fire at the Plug; Then Disconnect the Shut Off Wire at the Coil (usually requires removal of the blower housing) and Check for Fire at the Plug. If No Fire at the Plug , then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. The Coil/Ign Module to Flywheel Gap is .020in. If the Plug Fires at Anytime During these 2 Checks, then a Safety Switch or Wire May be the Problem. Yes the Engine will Turn Even with a Bad Safety Switch. The Blade Safety is Usually the Cause of this. The Starter Turns and The Engine Doesn't Fire is an Indication of a Bad Coil/Ign Module or a Faulty Blade Safety Switch. The Clutch Safety Prevents the Starter from Engaging so the Mower Does Not Move when the Starter Turns the Engine. The Seat Safety is Designed to Stop the Engine if the Blades are Engaged or the Clutch Safety is Not Engaged when you Leave the Seat.**
Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
Hi Leo:
Forget about the Coil Test Instructions. They got Copied and Pasted to you and were for Another Questioner. Thanks. Sorry for the Mistake.
Respectfully
John
