Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): More info an the mower that wont start, sears craftsman, switch jumper


Question
QUESTION: Hi John,

I asked that question earlier tonight..."I have a Sears Craftsman 17.5 Kolhner rider 42" Model 944.600750 and it wont turn over at all.  When I turn the key to the headlight stage (not all the way to the right) I hear a low buzzing sound.  What's this likely to be ?  Solenoid?  I have no idea and appreciate any help."

I have put a cable from the battery to the starter and it does turn the motor and spark nicely.  When I turn the key to the headlight position, the lights go on, the voltage meter display goes way up.  When I turn the key further to the run or start position that display drops to almost 0.  Hopefully that information helps narrow the chase.  I don't know  how to test the solenoid.

Thanks again John

ANSWER: Hello Again Marty:


Check the Battery for a Bad/Weak Cell. Check the Battery Connections. Clean if Required. The Battery Voltage Should Not Drop More than 11.0 VDC when the Starter is Engaged. Here are Some Diagnostics to Perform. 1- Use your Jumper Cable Set and Attach the Positive Lead Onto the Positive Post of the Battery ( make sure the Battery is Fully Charged or is a New Battery). Now Firmly Touch the Large Post on the Starter. If the Starter Turns the Engine Properly, Then Check the Solenoid. Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Solenoid. If The Starter Does Not Turn and the Solenoid Clicks, Then the Solenoid is Bad. 2- PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY. I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). Check the Clutch/Break and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. I Think I gave you These Earlier. But Better Safe than Sorry. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi John,

From one problem to another...I cleaned the connections and now it has plenty of power (maybe a bad connection on the battery)...now what happens is that it turns over and starts,,,runs for a few seconds and then dies.  Then when I try and start it again, it turns over but doesn't catch.  If I wait about a day, same results...at first it seems to catch and starts to run...then it dies and just turns over and doesn't catch (run).

Getting a little frustrated,
Appreciate all your help John, great answers so far.

Marty

Answer
Hi Marty:

If this Engine has the Solenoid in the Bottom of the Carburetor. First Make Sure Voltage is Going to the Solenoid when the Ign Key is in the Run Position. If There is Voltage, then Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 3/4" Long. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid. ***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES*** Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jets. If the Engine Runs with the Bolt Installed, Replace the Solenoid. If Not, then Pour a Small Amount of Fuel Mix Into the Carburetor Throat while Holding the Throttle at Full. Still Holding the Throttle at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. Send me the Model Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John