QuestionQUESTION: My riding mower starts sputtering and kills while blades are engaged and cutting. The grass is not too long, I have clean oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, and new fuel lines. I can sometimes keep it running by disengaging the blades and adjusting the choke. It seems that the fuel filter sometimes does not have enough gas in it. Any ideas would be great, I am at a standstill.
Thanks, Robert.
ANSWER: Hello Robert:
Send me the Model Numbers Off the Mower, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. However, if this Engine has the Vacuum Fuel Pump, then Change the Hose Clamps from the Spring Style to the Screw Style Clamps. The Spring Clamps can be Allowing Air to Enter the Line and Cause a Disruption in the Gas Flow to the Carburetor. Also if the Stator is Not Charging Properly and the Engine has a Fuel Cut Off Solenoid in the Carburetor, the Solenoid can Not Get the Proper Voltage to Stay Open Properly and will Cause this Problem. How Long Do you Operate the Mower before this Occurs? Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: The model # is 917.273180. I usually do not have to have it going to long, sometimes just a few minutes. But it seems it happens only when the blades are engaged. thanks Robert
AnswerHello Again Robert:
Thanks. 1- Have you Checked the Seat Safety Switch? Read the File Completely, Please. Only Certain Sections Pertain to your Problem. Thanks Again. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY. I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). Check the Clutch/Break and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. 2- The Carburetor is the Next Possible Cause. Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. 3- The Next is the Valve Adjustment being Off. I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best. Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines). Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center (Both Rocker Arms will have Play in them when the Engine is at TDC) When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Locks and Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .008in - .010in. I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. 4- Finally, the Flywheel Key Being Damaged. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models a Pry Bar is Put Between the Thick Section of the Flywheel and the Engine Block. Apply Pressure and Hit the Crankshaft with the Hammer. Use a Galvanized Pipe Cap to Cover the Crankshaft End and Protect it from Damage from the Hammer. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
