Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Removing crankshaft from Honda GCV160, honda gcv160, steering wheel puller


Question
QUESTION: HI John - I'm having difficulty in removing the crankshaft from my Honda GCV160 lawn mower engine, I removed the nut from the top and I'm unable to push it down the flywheel. I've ensured that nothing is blocking the crankshaft as I slowly hammer the crankshaft from the top. I don't think that it is threaded to the flywheel but I could be wrong. Is there an easy way to remove that from the upper case of the engine block?

On some other postings, I've read seal puller and things like that, I'm not expert in this area and I don't know if I need a special tool for removing the crankshaft from the case.

Thanks in advance for your help. BTW, I also read in another thread an option for straightening the bent crankshaft but the stores I went to in my area asked me to buy a new mower instead.

--Feroz

ANSWER: Hello Feroz:

Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: John - Using steering wheel puller is not feasible given the flywheel holes are welded to four tiny things spikes off the flywheel that does not take the load. In fact, the flywheel hole plate starts to come off the flywheel when too much pressure is used in the pull. Instead, I used lot of lubricant around the flywheel-crankshaft area, soaked it completely and left it for 20 mins or so, and all I needed was one hammer to the crankshaft from the top to detach the crankshaft and it came off easily.

Now that I've put all the parts together, I want to ensure that I've assembled it correctly, is there a manual online that I can use to troubleshoot if it doesn't start up tomorrow, I just finished assembling it two hrs ago. All I need to fire up is the gas tomorrow.

Thanks for your help.

Answer
Hello Again Feroz:

You have the Honda with the Starter Pawls Inserted where the Puller would be Bolted. You did Good Removing the Flywheel. I will Make a Change in the Flywheel File to Account for this Situation. Thanks. There are No Manuals Offered for Online Viewing to Diagnose Small Engines. Here is a Standard Small Engine Diagnostic File I Made. ***Here are some Diagnostic Instructions to Do on the Mower to Locate the Hard/Not Starting. Check the Spark. If Not Firing, then Replace. If the Plug is Firing, then First, Pour a Small Amount of Gas Into the Carburetor Throat with the Throttle at Full. With the Throttle Still at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor. If the Gas is Free Flowing, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. If No Fire at the Plug, then Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire from the Kill Switch at the Engine Stop/Brake Bracket (where the End of the Stop/Brake Cable Attaches at the Engine). Check for Fire. If No Fire, then Remove the Blower Housing and Remove the Ground Wire from the Coil. Check for Fire. If Still No Fire, then the Coil is Bad. If there was No Response from the Engine When the Gas was Poured Into the Carburetor Throat, then Check the Compression.  Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

Till Next Time. May All Your Mechanical Problems be SMALL ONES and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks Again.

Best Wishes and Good Luck

Respectfully

John