QuestionQUESTION: Hello, hope you can help; appreciate the time in advance...
I have a Sears Gamefisher 1.2 HP (22cc) air-cooled outboard motor. It's pretty old, but I just bought it w/ a canoe. Prev owner claims it has under 20 hours, but been awhile since he ran it. They were made by Tanaka - here is URL to parts list that shows exploded view diagrams: http://www.tanaka-usa.com/index.php?section=129 (scroll to bottom for PDF files). An owners manual can be found here (TOB-120): http://www.tanaka-usa.com/index.php?section=108
OK I'm a novice, but here goes:
1) I have the right fuel-oil mix
2) I get spark (checked by removing, holding on fins, and pull the pullcord)
3) I removed carb and soaked overnight in lacquer thinner, cleaned up any varnish (not much)
4) I put full choke and half-throttle, as recommended.
5) Nothing happens. I also checked exhaust path in case any critters got in there but it's all clear. Wont start, doesn't even seem too close to starting really.
The carb floods then actually leaks gas after some time. That can't be good. I'm wondering if the float is not actuating like it should? I'm at a loss... If you can help, that'd be great!
Thanks!!
Ryan
ANSWER: Hello Ryan:
Thanks for the URL. That Does Not Happen Often. What is the Compression? Have you Checked the Flywheel Key? If the Key is Damaged, the Engine Will have Compression, Fire and Gas but Can Not Run Due to the Plug Firing Out of Time with the Piston on Compression Stroke. I Suggest this Because tis is a Direct Drive Prop and the Flywheel Key can Be Damaged Due to No Clutch to Slip if the Prop Hits an Object in the Water. The Carburetor Needle Valve is Not Operating Properly and the Carburetor Need to be Cleaned with Carburetor Cleaner. I have Never had Any Luck Cleaning Carburetors with Thinner. Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: John I think I may have to defer to someone I work with to have a gander. I will let you know what he finds (I also told him that if he can't fix it for $40-50, don't bother-- I dont plan to motor the canoe much and if so I'd probably get a nice quiet electric trolling motor if I had to.
Thank you for the super fast response-- it was a great help to get your input/opinion!
AnswerHi Ryan:
No Worries. Some People can Do these Repairs and Other Can Not. It is Always Better to be Safe than Sorry. Thank you for Using All Experts. Till Next Time. May All Your Mechanical Problems be SMALL ONES and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks Again.
Best Wishes and Good Luck
Respectfully
John
