QuestionQUESTION: Hi John! You reponsese appear to be very helpful! :) I enjoyed reading your previous answers. My Deere STX38 was cutting out as if overheating for a while and then just stopped, I can't start it at all now (not even a clicking noise) and am thinking of replacing the ignition switch. Anything else you can think of? When I hook up a battery charger it says there is a short, so I know it's an electrical problem. Thanks very much!
ANSWER: Hello Andy:
Thanks for the Good Words. I Try. Unplug the Ignition Switch and Hook up the Battery Charger. Does it Still Say there is a Short. If Yes, then Disconnect the Battery Wires from the Battery and Check it Again. The Battery Could have a Shorted Cell. If the Charger Reads the Battery to be Good when you Disconnect the Ignition Switch, then You Really Need to Check Each Wire Going Into the Switch, One at a Time for a Short. Once you Have Eleminated the Wires as Having a Short, then You can Replace the Ignition Switch, Knowing it is the Cause of this Problem. The Fuel Shut Off Solenoid in the Carburetor Bowl May have Shorted and is Causing this Problem. I have Seen Several that had this Problem and the Solenoid had Shorted, Drained the Battery and in 1 Case it Started a Fire. The Fuseable Link May be Burnt and Require Replacing. The Brake/Clutch Switch May be Bad or the PTO May have Shorted Out. I have Seen All these Components Cause this Type of Problem. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower at this Site Addy, http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.H and Enter the Model Numbers and Click Find. Then Select the Sectional File. Then Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View Online. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
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QUESTION: Hello again, I've returned! Thanks so much for your help and the link. I bought the ignition on a whim as it wasn't too expensive, and it didn't do the trick. Does that mean it is definitely one of the wires in between battery & ignition? There are 2 positive chains, one that goes to the ignition/seat safety and one that goes to everything else. The alarm goes off on my charger for a short circuit only when the ignition wire w/ seat safety/relay is hooked up. When I unhook it and leave everything else hooked up, the alarm does not go off. I jumped the seat safety and replaced the ignition. The only other parts to replace on this chain are a little box in the battery compartment (relay and relay connector) or the individual wires. The neutral safety, which is extremely inaccessible, has not been checked but is on the other chain. Here is what I feel is the crucial question. Is it possible that there's a short in the other chain that is not evident until the key is turned, completing the circuit? Could the solenoid still be bad for example, even though I don't get the warning until the ignition switch is hooked up with the key turned? I never get a short circuit warning until I turn the key with the seat safety switch on, which means that is completing the loop. I am afraid to use a 12V tester for fear of ruining something else, I have one but don't know where all to connect it and there are many different wires! I'm guessing I'm making it more difficult than it is. Hopefully this fills you in, thanks again for your help John!
ANSWER: Hello Andy:
LOL No Worries. You can Use a Multimeter to Check the Wires. Either Use the OHMs (to check the Wire Continuity) or the 12vdc (to Check the Voltage). Use your Tester and Check the Relay First. Check the Starter Solenoid and Starter as Follows. Use your Jumper Cable Set and Attach the Positive Lead Onto the Positive Post of the Battery. Now Firmly Touch the Large Post on the Starter. If the Starter Turns the Engine Properly, Then Check the Solenoid. Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Solenoid. If The Starter Does Not Turn and the Solenoid Clicks, Then the Solenoid is Bad. If the Solenoid and Starter are Good, then Check the Clutch/Brake Safety Switch and then the Neutral Safety Next. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY. I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals. Check the Clutch/Break and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
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QUESTION: Thanks once again! I think I've got it narrowed down thanks to your help :) The engine turns when I jump to the starter, and only clicks when I jump to the solenoid. So the only thing it can be is the solenoid right? Ironically the engine started with no trouble yesterday but only ran for about 10 min. and died again. I am working on getting a solenoid but wanted to make sure. I'm curious if you think this is something a layperson can install - OR if I can clean the existing one somehow to make it work. They are very expensive with no returns (even through Kohler instead of JD) so I didn't want to gamble on this one. BTW - you should have a "donations" button so people can help you back for all your help - thanks a ton!
AnswerHello Andy:
The Solenoid is the Same as a 1984 Ford Starter Solenoid, Only the Ford has 2 Small Terminals Instead of 1. The Terminal Marked S is the Terminal to Use. The GP Sorensen Part Number is SS 94 and is Around $10.00 at the Local Automotive Parts Retailer. If you Followed the Instructions for Checking the Solenoid, then the Solenoid is the Cause. Thanks For the Good Words. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
