QuestionQUESTION: I have a 5211 Simplicity, ID 1691095. 11HP BS engine 253707. After about 5 to 10 minutes it stalls on when the mower is engaged. If I disengage the mower, or take it out of gear, it will not stall out on me. Once it does die there is a white smoke coming from the tractor. The engine will not turn over for a minute or two if I try to start it again, like the battery is dead, but then eventually comes back to life. I know it isn't a dirty carb (I cleaned it several times), it isn't a bad gas cap (I tried mowing with the cap off, and eventually bought a new one), it isn't a bad coil, I just replaced that and the spark plug. After each step there was absolutly no change in performance. I am out of ideas... somebody suggested checking the valves, but I don't know what to check for.
ANSWER: This is tough. My first guess would have been coil or fuel cap.
When I hear hoof beats I don't look for zebras, I look for horses. Meaning check the obvious stuff first.Valves would be the last place to look. I'm assuming this is a fairly old unit. The 11 hp Briggs hasn't been used for at least 10 years. I guarantee the valves suck, but they won't fix themselves.
Try this and let me know how it goes and we can go from there.
Disconnect the tractor kill circuit from the engine. to do this go to the governor control panel( this is where the throttle cable mounts) and disconnect the tractor kill wire. It will be held to the panel with a 11/32 nut.
Now run the tractor until it dies. If it doesn't die the problem is tractor not engine. If it does die, immediately drop the carb float bowl and see if it has fuel in it. Also pull the plug and let me know what it looks like,powdery black, white, wet black, etc.
Looking forward to helping you more. Let me know how it goes. We WILL figure this out!
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QUESTION: Thanks Paul, I think you may be on to something.
1) Either I don't have a tractor kill wire, the previous owner already disconnected it, or I just can't find it. This tractor is probably 20 years old.
2) When the engine died I quickly checked the carb bowl. It was full of fuel.
3) The brand new spark plug is totally coated in powdery black, dry carbon.
So... now what? It seems like it is getting too much fuel / not enough air??? The choke appears to be working properly.
Thanks again for helping me out!
ANSWER: Black fluffy fouled plug (now you know how they get the flocking for those cool black light posters)is usually always fuel.
Did you change the oil after you cleaned the carb, you could have fuel in the oil.
The kill wire is the wire that went to the coil. Find where it comes out of the engine and disconnect it. If the key switch turns the engine off you have to have a kill wire.
Bottom line , since the plug is new and is now carbon fouled clean the carb again. Go to your B&S dealer and buy a carb kit and replace the needle and seat. Change the oil again.
Keep me posted if this doesn't fix your problem. IT IS NOT THE VALVES.
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QUESTION: Thanks Paul, I don't think this one is going to make it. I bought a new carb kit, and put in new oil. It ran like a champ, but smoked like a chimney. I said to myself "self, I can deal with some smoke" I pulled it into the garage and shut it down, about a minute later I heard something leaking. I look under the tractor and oil was pouring down the shaft that drives the transmission and mower belt... I guess something beyond my abilities is broken... which leads me to my next question. Can you tell me the difference between an LA Series Deere (HD / Lowes) and an L series Deere (dealer)
Thanks again Paul!
Darren
ANSWER: My first thought is that you have a blown lower crank seal. That is where your oil leak is coming from and it has caused you to lose crankcase vacumn. Replacing the lower seal might help and it is really pretty simple.
Pull the pulleys of the bottom, carefully dig the old seal out with a screw driver and install the new seal. It will cost about 4 dollars. What do you have to lose.
Don't buy a tractor at Home Depot/ Lowe's . You can buy everything they sell at the exact (it's a contract thing" same price at the Deere dealer. When you buy from the dealer you get dealer support. If for some reason you have a warranty problem you have to take it to the dealer for repair. If you bought it at Lowe's/Depot you go to the bottom of the pile. Buy it from the dealer and you might have it back the same day.
If you can afford it buy an Xseries tractor. It will last a lifetime instead of 10years.
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QUESTION: Thanks for the encouragement... we are in the final stretch. I ended up taking the whole engine off so I could get at that lower crank seal more easily. Unknowingly I thought I had to take the engine sump off (is that the right word? its the whole lower pan) I pulled the crank seal out and I looked at the hole where the crank shaft goes though that bottom pan. The hole has been ovalized. If I just replace the lower crank seal, will it last, or is it going to wear through after 10 running hours? There was also some kind of spring seal that looked a little chewed up... but I may have done that when I was trying to get the crank seal out. I guess my question is "Do you think I should buy a new engine sump?" I think it is B&S part number 391784. Thanks again Paul! All hail the Truthmeister!
ANSWER: You do not need a new sump !!!
The oval hole is where the oil goes to the bottom bearing. It's always oval. Actually it's an optical illusion. It's actually a perfectly round hole.
You already have the engine off, you might as well replace the sump gasket while you're there. They leak a lot. 3.00 bucks for a gasket and 8 bolts. What the heck.
The spring you see is part of the old seal. Throw it away.
So says "The Truthmeister".
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QUESTION: Awesome! Thanks Paul. I did everything you suggested, and the tractor was able to make it all the way through mowing the lawn. BUT!!! When I was done the engine was hot as hell. A light white smoke was emanating off the whole engine. I checked the oil level, and it is already low. It doesn't seem to be leaking... could I be burning that much oil? Also it seems like I ended up using more gas than normal. Any thoughts?
AnswerYou are burning more fuel because current fuel SUCKS! Thank George W and the EPA for that.
It is possible that your 20 year engine is worn out. But look on the bright side. When you mow you keep the bugs away.
Keep mowing until you here a bang and you see a hole in the side of the block. Then have a respectful burial for the 20 year warrior.
Don't give up on the engine until it blows. That's every warriors dream to go out in a blaze of glory. Unless you are having a garage sale. If so bye, bye warrior.
