Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
we did not use last season, went to start today,
battery was dead, hooked up amp to battery tried to start, was trying to start, but no results,
should i put in a fresh battery?
Answer -
Hi John,
The battery is probably not good, if it sat in a discharged state, especially if it is old. If it won't take a charge, you should replace it or test the rider with another battery. Follow my proceedure below, using what applies to your situation.
Let me know how you make out.
Michael
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I would check the starter first. Jump the positive battery terminal to the starter and it should crank over. If so, skip to step 2.
If not, jump from a battery that you know is good, from a car. If still nothing, the starter is bad. If good, then the mower battery is weak.
Step 2.
If the starter and battery are good, you will need to trace the entire circuit from the starter to the battery. The solenoid, switches the battery power to the starter, when power from the key switch is sent to the small terminal on the solenoid. To test the solenoid, first make sure that you have power at its large terminal which comes from the battery. Then jump power from that terminal or the battery positive post, to its small terminal. You should hear a click and the other large terminal that feeds the starter should be energized. If not, then the solenoid is bad. If good, then continue tracing the power through the key switch to the battery until you find the break in the power path. All testing can be done with a 12 volt light or a voltmeter. Most equipment has safety switches in the seat and on the blade engagement lever. Check them by temporarily bypassing with a small jumper wire.
hello,
stupid me but a brand new battery in , turned right over, should i drain the old gas out? and clean lines out?, change plug?
AnswerHi John,
That's good. An easy fix is always good. Yes, drain the old fuel at the carb fuel line inlet and refill. Change the oil and spark plug. Clean or replace the air filter. Check the blades for sharpness.
Best,
Michael
My storage tips:
Springtime equipment starting problems are very common.
In the fall we all just want to park the mower and forget it. I do that for a week or so but within a month, usually after the leaves are up I do the storage prep.
I first change the oil. Old oil has acids and other contaminates, which shouldn't sit in an engine for long periods. Next, I drain the fuel and put in in the car where it will be used up soon. Then, fill up the tank with new fuel, fresh from the pump. (Fuel starts to go bad in one month. It can either gum up in carb or make deposits, clogging the small openings.) I add fuel stabilizer. This is an important step. Stabilizer, available at equipment or auto supply shops, will keep fuel stable for up to one year. (I like the brand "Stabil".) I then run the engine for about 5 minutes to run the fuel through the carb and to coat the engine's internal parts with the fresh oil. Finally, after the engine cools, I remove the spark plug and squirt about a tablespoon or two of engine oil into the cylinder. After replacing and tightening the spark plug but not connecting the wire, I slowly crank the engine over several times to coat the cylinder walls with oil. This step prevents rust and helps to keep the rings from sticking in the piston grooves. That's it! Ready for winter hibernation! In the spring, it should fire right up. After the cylinder oil burns off or after the first use, I then change the spark plug. I also try to use up all the fuel before adding more. This proceedure, applies to any engine being stored off season. At storage time it's also good to do other maintenance as required, like: belts, bearing/bushing lube, blade sharpening, air/oil filters, general inspection, etc. Spare parts on hand make it a snap. The battery should be removed, washed and stored in a warm dry place. It should be trickle charged once a month. If stored in a discharged state, the battery life will be shortened and if left in the cold, a dead battery will freeze.
