Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Sears tractor wont start, battery terminal, key switch

Question
I have a Sears lawn tractor about 2 years old. When I turn the key to start, the engine turns only a few times before it "seems" to stop. If I "hold" the key in the start position when this happens, it then proceeds to turn very, very slowly like it's come across some out-of-the-ordinary resistance. Until recently, it would eventually turn over & start but now it will not & the cable going to the starter just gets hot. I pulled the starter off & turned the key & it seems to spin normally, so I'm assuming it's not the starter or anything related. Will a no-spark situation cause it to do this?
I also turned the engine by hand by rotating the pulley underneath & it will turn freely a couple of times & then there is some resistance (is that normal?). That's probably where it's stopping when I try to start it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ray

Answer
Hi Ray,

Sorry for the delay.

The resistance is normal and due to the compression in the cylinders.  I suspect a weak starter or battery.  No spark would not affect the cranking over.  Follow my No Crank proceedure below and let me know how you make out.

Michael

I would check the starter first.  Jump the positive battery terminal to the starter and it should crank over. If so, skip to step 2.
If not, jump from a battery that you know is good, from a car.  If still nothing, the starter is bad.  If good, then the mower battery is weak.  

Step 2.
If the starter and battery are good, you will need to trace the entire circuit from the starter to the battery.   The solenoid, switches the battery power to the starter, when power from the key switch is sent to the small terminal on the solenoid. To test the solenoid, first make sure that you have power at its large terminal which comes from the battery. Then jump power from that terminal or the battery positive post, to its small terminal. You should hear a click and the other large terminal that feeds the starter should be energized. If not, then the solenoid is bad. If good, then continue tracing the power through the key switch to the battery until you find the break in the power path.   All testing can be done with a 12 volt light or a voltmeter.  Most equipment has safety switches in  the seat and on the blade engagement lever. Check them by temporarily bypassing with a small jumper wire.