Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Murray 4.75 HP B&S mower, tons of tools, dirty air


Question
Thanks for the reply!  Before I got the reply I had already started and mowed the rest of the lawn.  It takes more pulls than it used to to start and it still bogs down on some of the heavier grass (though that may just be because the grass got too long for mulching), but not nearly like it did when this first happened.  The real issue now is that when I release the throttle bar after it has run for a while, the engine keeps running for a bit and dies.  It keeps running for 30 seconds or more.  Does this have to do with the flywheel key?  The reason I ask is because I don't have tons of tools to be fixing it.


Thanks again!
--Dan



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Followup To
Question -
Hi,
  I bought this mower brand new a month and a half ago.  While I was mowing this morning, I accidentally hit the blade on a stump and it stopped the engine.  Not thinking, I tipped the mower up to see if the blade was loose.  Well, the way I tipped it was wrong and oil got onto the air filter.  I got it started with the dirty air filter, but it had no power (the second I tried to cut anything, it would bog down).  So I got a new air filter, cleaned out the air box as best I could, and filled the oil pan back to it's normal level.  The engine started (though not as easily as it used to) and a lot of white smoke poured out of it for a few minutes.  However, once the blade touches any grass (even low easily cut grass), the engine bogs down and if I don't tip the mower up off the grass, it dies.  I also notice that the mower shakes more than it did and an occasional clicking noise is heard.  I looked under the mower (the right way this time) and didn't notice any looseness in the blade or any marks on the deck.  Any ideas?

Thanks!
Dan
Answer -
Hi Dan,

Sorry for my delay.  (Due to the holiday.)

One problem may be due to the oil getting into places that it normally isn't.  After running then engine a while the excess oil should burn off.

The bigger problem is that the impact most likely sheared the flywheel key and/or bent the crankshaft.  To check for this, follow my proceedure below and let me know what you find.

Michael

If it quit right after striking an object, I could almost guarantee that the flywheel key is sheared.  The timing would then be off.  The flywheel is located under the recoil/cooling shroud. Its' bore is tapered and mates with the tapered crankshaft. The keyway in the flywheel and shaft
keeps it from spinning on the shaft.  A nut secures it.  Use an impact wrench on the nut or a strap on the flywheel.  Don't put force on the cooling fins or they will break.  The recommended way to remove a flywheel is to use a puller.   An alternative, is to tap on the crankshaft top, with a brass hammer or use a punch tip on an air
hammer.   The flywheel will need to be held up and supported or upward pressure applied with 2 large prybars. (A 2 person job.) Care is needed so the flywheel doesn't crack or bend.  Also be careful to not mushroom over
the crankshaft top.  Replace the key.  Install the flywheel after cleaning the tapers and re-tighten the nut to 65 ft/lbs.
There is also the possibility of a bent or twisted crankshaft depending on the severity of the impact but usually the key just shears.  To check for this, remove the spark plug and watch the center of the blade holder while someone cranks the engine over.  If it runs out of center, the crank is bent.  

Answer
Hi Dan,

No, the flywheel key shouldn't affect the engine as far as it not shuting off.  Follow the cable from the handle down to the kill switch that it controls.  The switch may have gotten out of adjustment.  

For the bogging down, check the deck for clogged grass and also the blade for sharpness.  

If the key is sheared, the flywheel may be able to move a bit and allow the engine to run okay for now but the problem may return.

Good luck.
Michael