QuestionQUESTION: My '87 Celica GT-S with manual transmission and 4 cyl, 2.2L engine (mileage at least 160,000 but not sure bcuz speedometer broken when I bought the car 5 yrs ago) started dying while driving and/or idling. Problem started when car would not start after being driven (got hot?) until it sat for 45 mins to an hour. Then it died at a stoplight with same results -- had to sit. Last night it died every 4 to 5 blocks about 4 times to get it home. Been going on for about 6 weeks. RECENT REPAIRS/HISTORY: About a year ago had charging & tail/brakelight problems. Due to "electrical shorts" according to mechanic who fixed it by replacing alternator with one from the junkyard which he did not tell me & was not shown on paperwork he gave me, all workorder said was "fixed electrical shorts charging & brake/tail lights 6-month warranty". I'm not sure what else he did but everything worked when I left. In the early part of April 2012, I cross-connected jumper cables while jumping my sister's car (although touched would be a better word than connected, there was a big spark when I did it). My car was NOT running at the time. In the early part of June, bcuz my car failed smog due to something about the idle, a mechanic I know made some adjustments to my engine idle speed while replacing my spark plugs, including removing a factory set block that the manufacturer recommended not be messed with (I believe it was on the adjustment screw that was factory preset and this was already done when I found out about it). The engine idle seemed extremely low. About two weeks later I began having charging problems (low battery) which developed to completely dead battery. I took the car to the place I bought the battery and the tech said my alternator voltage output was low and that it wasn't charging when the car was idling but was when raised rpms. I had to replace the alternator again which was done by the same mechanic that did the 'idle adjustment' service. About 2 to 3 weeks after replacing the alternator, this new problem started (about 6 weeks ago). I am a single mother who is currently unemployed which is why I cannot afford to go to a shop to have repairs done to my car but I really need my car. Looking on line, trying to see if this particular car or year of car has any similar problems. I also understand that the igniter or ignition module is a rather expensive part so I am trying to find out as much as possible to ensure it's what's causing the problem before I purchase it. Also, if it's feasible to get the part at the junkyard. Any information you can give me is greatly appreciated. I am so grateful that there are people out there that are willing to spend their time for people who need help/information, like me. Thank you so much!
ANSWER: Thank you for the detailed description and history of repairs.
My best answer after reading everything twice is that it may be a problem with the ignition coil, the coil is built into the distributor on this engine, you can try having the coil replaced and see what happens, this is a common source of stalling problems, the coils tend to crack and leak high voltage, Unless the check engine light stays on while driving that would be my next step. The coils are available at all autoparts stores.
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QUESTION: First of all, I'd like to thank you for taking the time to read my question and respond. I am so stuck and it helps to have as much information as possible. I had the coil tested and it was okay. The car no longer starts at all and I am looking at the ignition module as the potential source of the problem but it is so very expensive, I am going to look at the junkyard to try and find one. I know this is risky but I have no other options. Is there any way to test this part to confirm it is the cause? I realize that you spend alot of time answering these questions and I do plan on coming back and using that donate button as soon as I am able to. But thank you again for any information you can supply.
AnswerHello, there is no ewliable way to test the igniter module other than by substitution, have you checked for spark to the spark plugs while cranking the engine?, Remove one of the spark plug connectors and put a scredriver in to make contact with the metal connector, hold the metal part of the screwdriver about 1/4 inch away from a metal surface, there should be a spark to ground when someone cranks the engine, let me know if this is the case or not.
