Toyota Repair: efi or fuel pump, power steering hose, toyota pickup

Question
So I have an 88 22re efi toyota pickup. it is causing me pain.

it would not start. So the problem started with the power-steering hose rupturing. I changed that and when i did the car would not start. so i dug into the electrical components to try to figure it out and long story short i ended up blowing the main fuse. i replaced that and still nothing. i have since taken out half of the engine bay and cleaned up everything and done the following:

got the alternator tested and it`s good. tested the ignition coil and igniter via ohmmeter and it checked out. i cranked the engine with the sparkplugs out individually and they all sparked.

i have checked all of the injectors and the resistance is right. the harness shows continuity for each injector as well upon cranking too. so everything that goes into the engine seems fine.

it gets fuzzy around the fuel line though. i pulled off the fuel line off of the fuel filter and put the ignition on and cranked too, but no fuel coming out. so then i hooked up an ammeter in line with the negative battery terminal and i got a low 3.2 mA reading which kind of figures the small misfires that i used to have when i turned on something electrical inside the car such as flasher, headlight, fan.
so i looked at the fuses and the fuse under the driver side panel going to the ecu unit seems to be the problem. so then i went to the ecu and there are three big connectors going into it. upon disconnecting the rightmost connector the reading on the ammeter dropped to 1.2 mA. upon disconnecting the middle nothing happenned and upon doing so with the leftmost the remaining 1.2 mA reading disappeared. interestingly enough upon disconnecting only the leftmost connector the 3.2 mA current dissappears instead of giving a 3.2-1.2= 2.0 reading. so that is puzzling me.
anyway i am not sure whether the ecu is supposed to have any kind of base current making this perfectly normal.

so next thing was i went to the fuel pump and i disconnected the plug and put a continuity tester in it and the damn thing was beeping day and night for continuity whether i had the ignition on/off or the engine cranking.
unfortunately i have not heard one bit of humm from the pump upon reconnecting the pump or gasoline out of the line. i also was able to brake the continuity at the pump when i disconnected the ecu described above.
anyway,
1. am i supposed to get continuity from the connector that goes into the fuel pump all the time or am i only supposed to get when the ignition is on/engine cranking?
2. is the 3.2 mA reading coming out of my ecu normal or is that bugging my fuel pump?
3. if my fuel pump gets juice and still is not humming does that mean that it is toast?
4. do i need a new ecu or a pump or both.

so let me know what you think Ted.
i appreciate any help, and sorry for writing such a crazy long email.

Sincerely,

Mark

Answer
The current draw from the ECU is normal "idling current". Yes if the fuel pump gets battery voltage it should run. The blue wire should be battery voltage when the key is in the start position with the engine cranking,after it starts the circuit opening relay provides power to the pump to keep it running, the white/black wire is ground. So my question is, does the blue wire get voltage when cranking the engine? If it does and the ground connection measures less than 1ohm to body ground then it would seem the pump is bad, assuming all the related fuses are good.