Toyota Repair: I have a 1998 Camry and the starter will not crank, jumper cables, immobilizer system

Question
QUESTION: I have a 1998 Camry and the starter will not crank  
Background info leading up the problem  AC compressor pulley froze up & broke the drive belt.  I continued to drive the car but the battery was old and didn't hold a charge long. The car stopped.  I had a deep cycle marine battery on the passenger floor and ran jumper cables from it to the battery with the hood down but only the one latch so I had an inch or so for the cable and made it home. That night I hooked up a battery charge and charged over night. The next morning I was driving around to repair stations to get an estimate. The car stopped again and the battery was drained. I  tried to connect the other battery again jumper cables were rusted a bit and when I tried to start it would not crank just a little relay clicking.

I then tried my vector jumper pack but accidentally connected it backwards and tried to start I then noticed that it was reversed so I turned off power and reconnected it correctly but now nothing happened when I turned the key to start it .  I only had headlights, hazard lights etc.  No power windows etc. or other thing when the key is in the on position.  I did some web searching. I replaced the burned out 100 amp fusible link and checked the other fuses and all were OK.  I installed a brand new charged battery.  When I tried to start I only got the relay clicking noise.  Now all the other things like power windows etc that work when the key is in the on position now worked.

There is no immobilizer system  or key less stater

I took out the starter relay and inspected it with an ohm meter
(1) Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity
between terminals 1 and 2.
(2) Check that there is no continuity between terminals
3 and 5.
(1) Apply battery positive voltage across terminals 1
and 2.
(2) Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity
between terminals 3 and 5
all passed.

Next I removed the starter and took it to an auto parts store to test and it failed. I purchased a re manufactured one and installed it.  I checked all my connections including the new battery to make sure they were tight and good.   I tried to start and got the same results on the relay clicking nothing at the starter.  I noticed that when I turn the key to start the clock light & the SRS airbag warning light that where on get dim but all the other instruments lights stay with the normal brightness. I rechecked some of the fuses including the starter fuse the main 40 amp fuse and others and all were ok.

I talked to a Toyota serviceman on the phone he said maybe it's wiring problem (I didn't smell any burnt plastic or wires and what is visible looks ok.)or something I am overlooking. He highly doubts I killed the computer. But unless I have the vehicular towed there he can't really suggest anything more.  I am pretty broke and I want to avoid that if at all possible.

I also bought new drive belt and a used A/C compressor from the junk yard for $75 and will find someone to install it cheaply if I can get the car started and running..  

Could you please suggest some other things I could check?

Thank you,  

Jim


ANSWER: It may be an alternator problem, have the alternator/charging system tested with a tester with the engine running under electrical load conditions.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I think I gave you too much info.
The starter will not crank. A brand new fully charged battery was installed A new re-manufactured starter was installed. The started relay was checked. The alternator fusable link fuse was replaced. The alternator would only be a problem if it wasn't properly charging after the engine was running.

ANSWER: Try doing this,unplug the solenoid connector from the starter and put a testlight on it,have someone turn the key to the start position, the light should light,does this happen? Is there battery voltage at the big electrical terminal at the starter? Does the engine crank over when a jumper wire is placed between the solenoid terminal and the positive terminal of the battery?

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Does the engine crank over when a jumper wire is placed between the solenoid terminal and the positive terminal of the battery?  Yes

I noticed that the
10. AM2 30 A: Gauge and meter, SRS airbag system, seat belt pretensioners,
multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system, “IGN”
and “STARTER” fuses  was shorted.

I put a new one in and it burned out.

I used a thick wire to short and by-pass the fuse. The car started with the key and ran .  I drove it a few times for short trips and it ran fine. I noticed no burn smell or other indication that a short was causing any noticeable problems.   What should I check now?  The radio doesn't work now and that was intermediate in the past usually working but once and a while not

Could it be the SRS airbag system?

Thank you,

Joey


Answer
You mentioned three fuses "AM2,IGN and STARTER" were all three of them blown, which fuse was bypassed? If the AM2 was bypassed did the other two stay intact? In oreder for me to check the wiring diagram to see where the problem may be I need to know if it's a 4cylinder or V-6 and auto or standard transmission.