Toyota Repair: Timing and Knock sensor issue, crankshaft pulley, stock cams

Question
I recently had a shop replaced the head gaskets on my 88 4runner. They also replaced the knock sensor and the pigtail. I am getting a code 52 still. I have ohmed the connector that plugs into the pigtail back to the ECU and it is fine. I do not know how to check the knock sensor from the pigtail. The other problem I am having is that the timing is not at 10 degrees BTDC. I have verified that the 1 pistion is at the top of its stroke, the crankshaft pulley mark is at zero, the rotor is pointing to number 1 spark plug, and both cam timing marks are lined up with the pulley marks on my 3vze 3.0l engine. The timing is showing to be in the neighborhood of 20 degrees. This is with t1 and e jumpered out. How is this possible? I have only owned the truck for about 2 months. Could the cams be different from the originals? Would this cause the timing to be this far off? If I try and set it to 10, the truck does not want to accelerate and bogs down. Please help.

Shallowrunner

Answer
Jumpered out? They need to be grounded together to set diagnostic mode & show base timing. Otherwise the timing bounces between about 0*btdc through about 22*btdc just to stabilize the idle.
I assume you just amde a typo tho.


Check that the new knock sensor isn't trashed. Make sure the knock sensor wiring itself is not grounding. And check that the knocks ensor wireing is good fro the ECU alllll the way back to the sensor.


Without the knock sensor, the truck runs in limp mode with no timing & lots of fuel. The timing kills throttle responce, the fuel kills power output.
Minus completely custom cams / cam regrinds. There is only one sorce of aftermarket 3vz-e Cams. www.sea2skytuning.com. And he's only ever sold ONE set & I know that owner. So yes, they're stock cams most likely! ;)

Regardless you must fix the knocks ensor code to get back timing, or you have no ignition advance. Advancing it yourself on that particular engine is a complete death sentance. The crap exhaust crossover causes the #6 exhaust valve to burn up, the head warp & blow the head gaskets.