QuestionLast summer, front started making metal-metal sound, bot front brakes replaced. Now, back started making similar sound, so went in for estimate on brakes. Shop said that while I do need back brake shoes, that wasn't what I was hearing, that the problem was that the rt rear axle joint was "coming apart," transmission axle seals leaking, and needed a drive belt (I can clearly see a split in it).
They said it was unsafe to drive.
Then another mechanic said the axle joint "wasn't important" but I wondered if that was because he didn't do them and wanted to get to do all the rest.
I have also been told I need an engine mount--but that it wasn't a big deal, wasn't going to harm the car/me.
I just don't know what to believe, who to trust. Also, I'm a single mom, out of work, so I have to fix the things that could kill/strand me, but might have to wait a bit on the others.
So what I want to know is, what is the order of importance on these things in terms of danger, or doing more damage that could lead to danger; price for parts; hours for labor (I know labor prices vary); anything else I need to know.
Oh, I have a mechanic I trust but he's 3 hours away, so what would I have to get done before making the trip up to have him do the rest?
Car is a 95 Toyota Corolla Wagon with 189K and needs to go another 189k. It still gets 30-34 mpg, and is perfect for my compulsive camping (I'm short enough to sleep in back in bad weather etc).
Thanks.
AnswerBaby... Move south, I need a roommate! LoL! j/k
Annnnyways.
Replace the brakes. That's important! ;)
Replace the drive belt<s>. Understand you probably need a timing belt & water pump, but for right now leave those two until you have bit more money. Just understand if the timing belt snaps - ya aint going anywhere! And if the water pump has been in there long enough without yall changing the coolant often enough; the blades just sort of corrode off & you can have massive overheating problems.
Stave that off with coolant system maintenance! Change/flush the coolant every other year hunnie. (They don't say that to get the $50, or you spending $5 in fluid to get your money. They say that so when the pumps get 5-10 years old, they still work & the seals don't leak & the systme doesn't clog!)
The engine mount. It depends on the mount. They could all be shot, but Toyota sets them up logically. There are 3 mounts that hold the engine up & one mount on top that normally connects to a wheel well to keep it from rocking aound. It's the rocking around that destroys the mounts. The top mount's sole purpose is to keep that from happeneing, so it always wears out first. If you catch it right when that mount wears out, the others still get a good lifespan normally. Now once it wears out - the rest of the mounts wear at a grossly accellerated rate.
The top mount (Longitudnial mount, torque mount, "dogbone" mount) is normally pretty cheap. Around $50-75 online for a Chinese junk copy. Takes a 14mm socket to change. Obviously, that doesn't meant the other 3 mounts are not shot.
The axle seals leaking is blah. It means the transmission & differential are loosing fluid at some rate. Which isn't going to like immediately kill it unless it's a moderate / fast leak, but it is bad. See here's the thing sweetie.
More than 90% of transmission failures are from overheated transmission fluid (i.e. been in there way too long), or low fluid (i.e. not checked often enough).
Remember that for any car you ever own. Drain the fluid out of the transmissin pan & refill it every other year. You'll never pay a grand+ for a new transmission. (Unless the transmission is junk in the first place - Toyota's generally have great transmissions for longevity.)
The process for checking your transmission fluid level is to drive the car until it's well warmed up. Park on a level surface. & with the engine idling, read the transmission dipstick. It should read to the full HOT mark. (Cold markings are about useless.) If it reads under, you need to add fluid. If it reads alittle over, no worries.
If the fluid looks dark & smells rancid (You'll know it when you smell it, trust me - it's not going to be a question LoL!), it NEEDS to be changed in the NEAR future.
Transmission fluid should always be a bright, pretty red color with very little smell.
Here's a good picture:
http://www.dobbstireandauto.com/images/graphics/chart1.gif
The rear axle joint... Well it depends on what he is *exactly* talking about. But it's really not good to hear that. I say leave it for now.
I know you don't like working on cars, but if you learned to change your oil & filter, change the transmission fluid & changed the coolant. You wouldnt be single for long. Chicks that know basic maintenance are f'ing HAAAAAAWT! hahahahahahaha And the camping to. Sheesh! I bet you like boats too! LoL!
5 quart jug of Mobil1 5w-30 oil at wall-mart is cheap.
4 quart jug of Dexron-III ATF is like $7
Denso filters are about $4 (You can use the larger ones for like a Toyota v6 too, which will increase the oil capacity a hair & the filtration & help the oil a tiny bit for no charge too.) Wix / purolators are about $3-5
Coolant is real cheap. $2-3 a gallon unmixed & about $5 for pre-mixed.
Compair that to what you pay for those services done you save alot of money & have control over what gets put in the car. None of that bottom barrel, cheapo crap, or incorrect fluid changes from the idiots at the quick-service stop!
You'd save alot of money in the long run. Just always keep your reciepts & any warranty will have to be honored. (This one doesn't have a warranty, but for future refferance.) It's the law! For that matter, throw a little book in the glove-box to write down everything you ever do, or have done maitnenance wise. Trust me it pays off when you come time to sell a car huge.
Anywho That's pretty much that!
Always use Mobil1 oils.
Always use Denso (Toyota/Lexus/Scion filters), or Wix/Purolator oil filters.
Change the oil every 4,500 miles.
Change the coolant every other year, the thermostat & any pressure caps every other coolant change (every 4th year)
Change the transmission fluid ***atleast*** once ever 2-3 years. Prefferably twice.
Only ever put Denso, or NGK (Toyota, or Honda) spark plugs in it.
DO NOT run the car on the 7,500 mile oil change interval schedule unless you honestly meet the conditions set forth on that schedule!!! No city driving, no short trips, no towing / racing etc, and no crappy oils & filters.
Good luck with it!
One last thing. Regardless of who makes a car. Alot of things like mounts, or seals are amde of some form of rubber. Rubber only lasts about 10 years before it starts to split so... If you ever have a car about 10 years old, it's "normal" for some things to start to wear out. So don't freak out. :) Doesn't matter who makes the car, nor does it mean there are things just breaking & failing all over. It's just sorta how it happens ya know!
Oh! And always give the CV joint boots on the axles a good looking over. If they crack, they need ot be replaced & re-packaged with grease IMMEDIATELY. Or the CV joint is irrepurably damaged & you might aswell replace the whole axle. (It's only like $20-40 more to replace an axle, than half an axle on a front wheel drive car.)
