Toyota Repair: 83 Celica wont start, new distributor cap, cold crank


Question
Mike,   Thanks for taking your time to answer my question.

 You are GOOD!

First,  I got the NOID tester, coz that's what I thought the problem was.  The EFI harness tested ok.  Weak flashes but flashes all the same.  Checked the cold start valve with the same NOID.  Gave a very bright light for 3-4 seconds as advertised.

Second, I tested the compression as you suggested.  O psi on every cylinder.  I couldn't believe it.  So, I had the tester tested with compressed air at a gas station.  Checked good.  I put oil in each cylinder and tested again.  Still, zero.  So, it would appear that the head is shot, valve sticking open, or head gasket blown.  

I am gonna pull the engine and rebuild it.

Do you recommend any place to rebuild the head nationally or should I just find a reputible guy locally?

Nice diagnosis, thanks, John.



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Followup To
Question -
Hello, Mike.  First of all, sorry for the length of this question.
 I am stumped.  My fathers old 1983 Celica GT 22REC engine AT with 120000 miles sat for a year or so without being started and now it won't start.  Engine turns over nicely but nothing else.
 My current situation is as follows:  Good fuel pressure, not tested with gage but by loosening cold start valve nut (gas spurted all over).  Plugs are sparking nicely, pulled all four and saw nice strong bright spark, gap is good, too.  Timing looks good (8* BTDC).
 The injectors however, don't appear to be operating.  Fuel is in the log. I removed an injector, fuel spurted out of log.  Holding a screwdriver on each injector, I can't feel them clicking while cranking engine.  (if there is another better test let me know.)

Things I have already changed:
- Drained fuel tank added new gas.
- changed fuel filter and fuel pump.
- new distributor cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs.
- new cold crank thermo timing switch.
- new cold crank injector.
- new EFI relay.(the one on the breaker panel in engine compartment).

Things I've tested:
- coil ohm readings good.
- Igniter ohm readings good.
- Injectors ohms all test good.
- cold crank injector ohms good.

I have spent way too much money already on things that aren't broken.  I was thinking about the ECU next but I think thats really not it either and its $$$.

One really strange thing I found was when checking the new cold start timing switch(CSTS).  Before install, ohms across the terminals read about 30.  When threaded into engine and before connector placed on terminals,  read 307 ohms.  The exact reading on the old one which lead me to change it.
 I traced the 2-wire harness from the CSTS to the CS Injector, the wires aren't shorted out one to the other.  But, when the end of the wiring harness is plugged on the CSTS and the other end is read across the 2 terminals it is shorted and reads 0 ohms?!!?  Bad plug end at the CSTS, maybe, that only shorts when plugged in ?

Is there a test for the injector signal during cranking?  I've used a voltmeter on the injector plug, but the readings just dance around.

I am thinking bad wiring, but that would be tough to pin down.

Please help if you can before I blow up a nice looking car.
Thanks, John
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Answer -
You may be looking way past the problem. Start with a compression test. If its low, spray some penetrating oil in the cyls, crank over and spray again. Let sit overnight and check compression again.
It may have low or no compression from sitting so long and the rings may be stuck.
You can plug in a "noid" light in place of the injector and see if it flashes. That will tell you if the circuit is good.
You can rule out no fuel thru the injectors by pulling a plug out after cranking. If they were spraying, the plug will be wet, and you should smell fuel out the tailpipe.

Try a new set of plugs if they look fowled
Keep me posted

Mike  

Answer
I would try to spray marvel mystery oil in it and crank and wait crank and wait. The rings are probably stuck.
The head gasket shouldnt blow just by sitting.

If you go the rebuild engine route-
JASPER does a good rebuilt engine but very expensive.
Cheaper to send the block and head to a machine shop and install yourself.
I strongly suggest a Toyota Head set for gaskets.

http://www.jasperengines.com/

Mike




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