Toyota Repair: 96 toyota avalon wont start, fuel pressure gauge, fuel pressure regulator

Question
Ted,

Thank you for the reply.
Yes as you could tell something wasn't right
with the info I gave you.
I was indeed putting the fuel pressure gauge in the wrong spot.
I was putting it on the return line after the
fuel pressure regulator on the front fuel rail.
If you don't pay close attention it appears as though the fuel filter runs to the fuel pressure regulator.
It doesn't..
It runs to the back fuel rail first.
You probably already knew that.....
Anyway , without a special banjo style or homemade attachment for the fuel gauge I can't
get a fuel pressure reading after the fuel filter.

Unless it will work connecting it to the fuel pressure regulator?

I did hook up the fuel pressure gauage directly to the fuel pump and it did register while I was cranking. My guage only goes to 10 pounds, but
I am sure it works on up to 35psi ..it is new.
(my actual fuel pressure maybe less though due to the dirty fuel filter right)

Do you know how to access the error codes on this model?


I will check the timing belt first and report back to you.

Replacing the timing belt looks like a lot of work just from glansing at the book....

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

Brandon
(original message below)












Subject   96 toyota avalon won't start
Question   Ted,

Here is a detailed account...

My 1996 Toyota Avalon V6 , 200k miles , automatic , won't start.
It was starting and driving fine until the other day.

It may be important to note that 2 days before this problem the car
thru the power steering belt.
I replaced both the power steering belt and alternator belts.
Everything was fine after that until....

This problem started one day when I was parking the car coming
back from lunch.
When I parked I noticed the car was running choppy.
Not idleing fast. Idleing normally it was just kinda choppy.
I gave it a little gas to see if I could even it out.
Immediatley after I gave it gas, it stalled.
It hasn't started since.

My first plan of attack was the fuel filter.
I figured it would be the easiest and cheapest thing to replace.
Unfortunately, I can't break loose the bottom fuel line to the
vertically mounted fuel filter.
It appears as though it is the original filter.

After not being able to break it loose I decided to trouble shoot
other options.(process of elimination at this point)

I then attacked the spark plugs and spark plug wires.
I replaced all the wires and plugs. (but not the three coil plug wires in the front 2,4,6)
Just the three plug cables that run from the front plugs(2,4,6)
to the rear plugs (1,3,5).
This engine has 3 coils that are located on plugs 2,4,6, not a coil for each plug.
Each coil runs 2 plugs.

This did not fix the starting problem.

Also, I am not completely certain I got the plug wires on in the correct configuration.
I looked at the old wires (all different lengths) and luckily they had the number of the
plug they went to.
I then configured my new wires the same way and attached them to the most likely plug on the front(2,4,6)
based off of their lengths.

My Haynes Manual does not show the plug wire config for my model.
If you could tell me the config I would appreciate it. For instance does
plug 1 wire attach to plug 2,4,or 6 on the front?

Assuming I had the configuration correct I started following the Haynes Manual on troublshooting.


Shortly after this my starter went dead. When I would attempt to start the car the stater quit
cranking and just whined.
So I replaced the stater.

The car still wouldn't start.

So, on with the troubleshooting.....

-My Battery measures 12.47 when the car is not running.
-Fuel Tank has fuel.
-crankshaft position sensor Ohms out correctly.
-I checked for spark at the 1,2,4,6 plugs by removing the wires and attaching
an old plug to it and grounding it against the body while someone turned the engine.
All of them had spark.

-I Ohmed out the VSV for fuel and it checked out.

- I went and rented a vauum pump and applied vacuum to the Fuel pressure regulator while I cranked
the engine to see if it was lack off vauum to the FPR. It didn't do anything.
Engine still wouldn't start.

I then purchased a fuel pressure gauge and attached it after the fuel filter but before the
Fuel Pressure Regulator. I then cranked on the car and no pressure registered.
I thought I had found the problem.
I also attached the fuel pressure guage "in line" in case I was recieving a false reading from
incorrect usage. I used a "T" split and got the same reading "0" fuel pressure.

I replaced the FUEL PUMP.(since I couldn't get the fuel filter off).

I then tested the fuel pressure again ,but it read "0".
BUT when I broke the nut loose on top of the Fuel Filter gas shot out (it was under pressure).
But the other end of the fuel line was not attached to the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pressure gauge.
I thought maybe the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel pressure regulator was clogged.
So I got my vaucuum pump and attached it to the fuel line right before the fuel pressure regulator and applied
vacuum to see if i could get gas to come up thru the line and possibly unclogg the line.
Gas came up the line when I applied vacuum.
I then tried cranking the vehicle and gas came out of the open line into a container.
But it didn't seem to come up quickly.
I then attached the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line and cranked the car.
Still "0" fuel pressure.

I am wondering if the fuel pressure gauge is defective.

Right now I am thinking it is the:

a. fuel filter
b. fuel pressure regulator
c. timing belt
d. plug wires configuration

I plan on bypassing the fuel filter with a long fuel tube running from the gas tank to the
fuel pressure regulator to see if the fuel filter is the problem.

Also I was going to swap the plug wires around to see if I can get it to turn over that way.(just guessing)

I was even thinking about cleaning the Idle Speed Control Valve.

I also sprayed an entire can of STP throttle body cleaner in to the throttle
body to clean it out.
It looks like it could use more though.

Also, according to the Haynes Manual I should be able to jump E1 and Te1 in the
dianostic connector under the drivers side dash to get the dianostic codes.
I don't have a connector lead in Te1. There is nothing there.
Can you advise me as how to retrieve error codes form this vehicle?


Can you help me please?

Thank You.
Answer   There is something vey basic wrong with this engine, since there is spark the ignition system seems to be ok, I don't believe that crossed wires will not even produce a backfire condition but anyway the wires are connected with
#1 to #4, #2 to #5, #3 to #6.
It seems strange that there is no fuel pressure at the gauge, try using a different gauge, there should be at least 35psi, you can also activate the fuel pump by jumping the diagnostic connector terminals Fp+E1, with the key on the pump should run and you should be able to hear it.
If the pump can be activated and there is pressure but not while cranking normally let me know because it could be a relay problem.
If the fuel pressure is good it may be a good idea to check the timing belt, it may have jumped because of wear, as a matter of fact, it may be a better idea to check it first, remove the top front cover of the engine and check the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys at TDC.  

Answer
This engine has the OBDII diagnostic system and the codes should be retreived with a scantool or code reader, you may be able to get a response by jumping the TE1+E1 terminals on the DLC connector under the hood, the check engine light will blink and give the code numbers.