Tractor Repair: Case 1070 diesel keeps blowing head gasket, head gasket, head bolts

Question
I have a Case 1070 diesel tractor. I have replaced the head gasket three times within the last two years. The first time I thought it just failed. The second time I thought it was due to using ether during the winter. The last time I had the head planed. It was running great for about two hours and then it (the gasket) blew again. It started pushing water out the radiator cap. Since the field was very steep and bumpy I thought it was just that the radiator was overfilled and spilling out. When I got to the end of the row, I checked it and it was blowing water out between the block and the head. Do you have any ideas as to what could be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Answer
Hello,

  The outer top edges of the cylinder sleeves need to protrude .003 to .005 inch above the surface of the engine block to put enough clamping force on the fire rings of the gasket when the head is torqued down.  If the outer top edges of the sleeves are flush with the block or slightly below it, you will never be able to keep a gasket in it.  If they aren't high enough, the counterbores in the block will have to be repaired by an engine machine shop so that they will hold the sleeves up high enough.  Also make sure the top edges of the sleeves are smooth with no rusted or burned out spots, gouges, or other damage.  The bolt holes in the block should be cleaned out with a thread tap screwed in all the way to the bottom, and then the holes should be blown out with compressed air to make sure the head bolts turn free and aren't bottoming out.  The bolts should be checked to make sure they haven't stretched slightly.  The surface of the block needs to be absolutely clean and flat as well as the head.  Possibly the block needs resurfacing as well as the head.  The manifold bolts should only be finger tight until the head is completely torqued down, and then they can be tightened.  The bolts should be oiled and then torqued in a criss-cross pattern to 210 ft. lbs. and then retorqued again after the engine has been run up to operating temperature.  That will require removing the rocker arm assembly again unless you have a special tool to go under it.