Tractor Repair: caseih electronic 3 point, negative battery cable, solenoid coils


Question
QUESTION: The 3 point on our new to us  1986 CaseIH 9110 doesn't go down.  After looking under the console and looking at some parts diagrams I see the lever in the cab runs a potentiometer which is hooked to a electronic box.  Also there is another potentiometer on the 3 point hitch hooked to the electronic box and then wires to solenoids on a hydraulic valve.  Is there some checks that I can do myself to see if the controller or position sensors are bad.  If the controller is bad is there someplace that repairs them?
This tractor is suppose to have about 4000 hours but can't verify because pushing the hour button just gives us ---.


Brian

ANSWER: Hello,

  First make sure all the fuses are good if you haven't already done so.  It could just be that there is no power to the controller.  It also has to have a "clean ground" meaning it's grounded directly to the negative battery cable, not the tractor.  There is also a relay for the hitch. Some electronic controllers have a tiny green light on them that blinks to tell you it has power and is working.  Don't know if yours will have that or not.  The potentiometers can be checked with an ohm meter, but I have no info on what the ohm specifications are between the 3 wires.  They don't fail often, so they are the least likely. The solenoid coils on the hitch valve should have about 8 ohms resistance through them when they are unplugged, and should have 12 volts supplied to whichever one should be energized depending if you are raising or lowering the hitch.  If you have power to the solenoids, you can verify if they work and check for magnetism by putting a wrench or whatever on the end of each solenoid and feeling if it pulls the wrench onto it.  Also, the solenoid valves can be removed to see if they are stuck or have debris in them.  They should not be screwed in very tight or they will stick. If all electrical checks are OK, then it is a hydraulic problem.  You could loosen a hydraulic line to a lift cylinder and bleed some oil out to see if the hitch will go down when you relieve the oil pressure.  I have seen many hitches that are just stuck from not being used for a long time.  They won't lower on their own unless you push down on them with a tractor loader or skidsteer bucket.  A company that I know of that rebuilds electronic controllers is Ag Express, so you could check with them.  Not all controllers are rebuildable by them unfortunately, so you would have to ask them.  Go to agexpress.com for info.

         Good luck,

         Arnie

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Arnie,

We got the three point to go down by draining oil out of the cylinders. Started the tractor up and pulled the three point lever back a little and 3 point goes up a little. all the way back and it comes up all the way.  Good so far but still won't go down.  It has a Valve that controls the 3 point that I don't understand.  The name on it is a Dynex Rivett and has 2 wires going to a Solenoid looking thing.  These 2 wires control up, down and speed that it lowers.  There is an adjustment on end of solenoid with a allen head screw and locknut.  By turning this adjustment one way we can get it to lower but not raise.  "Turn it the other way a quarter turn it will raise but not lower.  Can't seem to get it just right so it will do both.  Could it be this solenoid is bad or is there a special way to adjust it.

Tanks for the help

Brian

Answer
Hello,

  There is an electronic hitch valve centering tool that is used on older Magnum tractors, but I have never seen it used on anything but a Magnum, so it probably will not work with a 9110.  An alternative way to do it without the tool is to turn the allen screw slowly until the hitch just starts to raise, then make some reference marks on the screw and valve, then turn the screw the other way until it just starts to lower, then make another reference mark on the valve.  Now turn the screw until the mark on it is centered between the 2 marks on the valve.  This will center the valve spool so it is not biased toward raise or lower.  This method isn't as precise as the electronic tool, but will get close enough to make it work.  It is still possible that there is something else wrong with the solenoid or something else, but at least you will have the valve adjusted correctly so by the process of elimination you have taken it off the list of possible causes of the problem.  If there is only one solenoid, it should have 3 wires.  One is the ground, one is for raise, and one is for lower.  Between either one of these and the ground, the solenoid should have about 8 ohms resistance through the coil.  You should get voltage on the raise and lower wires while attempting to move the hitch up or down.   Hope this helps.

         Arnie