Triumph Repair: TR3 Clutch Bleed, bleeder valve, clutch systems

Question
I rebuilt the master cylinder and replaced the slave cylinder.  The pedal depressed fully during the bleed, but once bled the pedal has only 1-2" of depression and is stiff, but does not disengage the clutch.  I have read much about bench bleeding, but before I took it all apart and gave it a try, I thought I would see if someone had other thoughts.  Just a bad bleed?  Air still in the system?

Answer
Hi Dan,
Clutch systems are difficult to bleed like brake bleeding because the clutch line is so large that when a bubble of air is pumped down toward the slave, as soon as you let up the pedal to pump again the bubble raises in the pipe and this continues.

I have found two methods that worked for me. First confirm that you don't have more than half full reservoir and leave the filler cap loose. Then use a pry bar on the slave cylinder rod so as to force the slave cylinder rod back into the bore all the way in one strong stroke.
Then push the clutch pedal down in one smooth stroke until the pedal hits the floor and release the pedal very slowly all the way up. (if the reservoir is not full now, fill it up but be sure to leave the filler cap loose. Then push the pedal down again and be sure to let it up very slowly. Repeat this until you have a good pedal. (About no more than 1 inch free play.) and the pedal should be firm right away and feel about the same all the way to the floor.

Another method that sometimes works is to fill the reservoir and leave the cap loose and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and let it drain by itself until the reservoir is a little below half full and close the bleeder valve and it should be right then.

If neither works you did something wrong on your master cylinder rebuild or you have a clutch problem inside.
Howard