QuestionHoward,
Thanks for your reply to my first thread. In checking the relationship of valves, i note the no. 1 intake valve coming off compression stroke at vicinity of 8 deg BTDC with the rotor pointing to where it would fire on no. 1. if i move through this, immediately no. 1 Exhaust valve dips; intake, followed right away by exhaust?...is timing 180 out? rotating through this with plug wires relocated "180 out" ie, rotor at what would be no. 4, with plug wire for no. 1 on that terminal, and the rest in order after that (1,3,4,2), it would cough, and "chug" very rough for a few seconds. Thoughts? additionally, the oil i was seeing in the carb throat was coming from the air valve needle seat. it would loose all the damper oil overnight. there is an o-ring up in there...
AnswerHi Gary,
Sorry Gary, I can't make any sense out of what you said. Do the following.
Pull the valve cover.
Pull all the spark plugs.
Put the car in 4th gear. Hand brake off.
put you thumb over #1 plug hole.
With your free hand, push the top of the tire forward until you feel compression on your thumb and stop.
Put something like a welding rod or coat hanger in #1 plug hole to feel the top of the piston.
Push the tire until you feel the coat hanger stop raising.
Look at the timing marks on the front pulley to confirm that it is at TDC.
Remove the distributor cap and look at where the rotor is pointing.
If it is pointing at #1 pin in the cap then it is close to correct.
Confirm that the rest of the wires are in the correct order around the cap.
If everything is correct up to now, watch the mark on the front pulley and roll the car forward so that you ONLY rotate the pulley ONE time back to the TDC mark.
Now feel the intake and the exhaust pushrods to see that they are both tight and will not spin freely. and that both rockers look as if they are down just a slight bit but the same amount. If this is true the cam is timed about right.
If all that is true then the engine should run.
Howard
