Triumph Repair: 73 1500 rebuilt, not starting, timing check?, exhaust stroke, degree wheel

Question
Howard,
I've just finished a rebuild on my 1500 engine, all stock, 1973 vintage, new rings, bearings, rebuilt carb, new coil, rebuilt dizzy, turns over, won't start.  I've got 110 PSI in all 4 cylinders, fuel to the carb, spark from the coil to the dizzy, clean plugs with a hint of combustion ash. Will Not Catch.  I fear it's camshaft is 180 degrees out.  any sure way to verify this (was Very careful to replicate timing marks line-up).  Still no hint of combustion...also, spun up engine with an eyedropper full of oil in each cylinder and plugs out to get oil pressure prior to starting.  Could there be residual oil everywhere, possibly causing problem?  noted oily film in carb throat after first start attempt...
Thanks in advance,
Best regards,
gary

Answer
Hi Gary,
Something is wrong as 110 PSI on a rebuild compression test is too low. Run the compression test again but be sure the throttle is wide open during the test. After the first test put about 3 or 4 squirts of engine oil in each plug hole and run a second "Wet" test and let me know what the new dry and wet test are.

Yes, it can be the cam as there are 4 different settings avaiable on the Spitfire engine. If the cam is stock you can accurately set the valve clearance of #1 or #4 cylinder at .040" or .050") and put a degree wheel on the crank and put that cylinder at exactly TDC of the exhaust stroke (middle of overlap) and rotate the crank back and forth across TDC to when each push rod gets snug and note the degrees on the crank. If the cam is timed correctly, the degrees will be the same to snug up the intake push rod as it is to snug up the exhaust push rod.

The term for this timing is called (Splitting Overlap) It is common on street engines.
Let me know,
Howard