Triumph Repair: Triumph Power Problems, triumph spitfire 1500, master brake cylinder


Question
QUESTION: I own a 78 Triumph Spitfire 1500 that I've had for three years.  I am an extremely novice mechanic.  After taking the car out of storage this year, it had no get-up-and-go.  I could have the pedal to the floor and it would top out at 20mph.  After driving it for awhile, it would return to close to normal and accelerate, but still not quite like before.  I made it to the gas stations one of the 3 or 4 times I took it out and filled it with higher grade fuel (no ethanol) hoping it would flush the problem out.  My friend suggested it was the fuel filter (and not to try "flushing it out"), so I replaced it, and that did not correct the problem.  Looking around back there, the gas tank appeared VERY new- maybe its just because its out of the elements.  I'd like to do what I can myself before I give up and take it to a shop.  But driving season is running out.  Any ideas?  Thanks in advance!

P.S.- I managed to changed the master brake cylinder myself so I'm on my way!

ANSWER: Ryan,

Now I'm curious... where can you still find non-ethanol enhanced gasoline?  I thought it was the "law of the land".

Ok, on to your problem.  Keep in mind that when a car sits in storage, things that are supposed to stay lubricated dry out and stick, electrical contacts  corrode and gasoline evaporates and leaves varnish (gummy) deposits where they don't belong.

And if the car is stored outdoors or covered over a dirt floor it can pick up moisture too.

It's not a bad idea to have two fuel system filters... one back by the gas tank right before the fuel line goes through the trunk and under the body and one up at the firewall right before the fuel pump.  

I'm assuming stock carb setup and the original factory electronic ignition?

A couple of quick thoughts.  It could be the needle valve in the carb float chamber is sticking, either open or closed.  Or the mechanical advance weights are sticking in the distributor.  Both could cause the symptoms you describe.

Have you pulled the spark plugs to see how they look?  Bright white insulators point to either the needle valve sticking shut or the timing being too far advanced.  Black sooty plugs are a sign that the needle valve might be sticking open or the float has filled with gas and the fuel level is sitting too high.  

One quick bit of advice.  A good repair manual is essential for figuring things out, and much faster if it's in the trunk when you break down at the roadside.  I'm a fan of the Robert Bentley manuals, they include a reprint of the factory manual.  No financial interest... just make sure you get the correct manual (late Spitfire, 1975-1980).  They're pricy at $50-$65 but less expensive than a visit to a mechanic.


Cheers,

Jim

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Would the needle sticking be an obvious problem?  Would the needle be bent?  I took the carb partly apart- damper cap, top cover, piston.  Everything appeared to be normal.  I took the bottom float chamber off, and there was gas in there, again nothing out of the ordinary.  I put it back together, put oil in the damper, reassembled, and its the same.  When I press down on the accelerator, it doesn't rev up normally.  I got a Haynes repair manual- the Rober Bentley manual wasn't going to be in stock until winter of '07.  I checked the spark plugs and they appeared to be ok.  Whats the next step to take?

Answer
Ryan,

The needle on the Stromberg CD150s should be spring loaded and move fairly easily in the dashpot.

What I suspect is that the ignition timing is off.  The Haynes should have some good troubleshooting information for setting the timing in your car.


Cheers,

Jim