QuestionLooks like a lot of us have starting problems on old TRs. I tried ether spray and it runs like a sewing machine for a few seconds so I rebuilt the carb trying to use the old seals etc. Problem is I don't know a lot so I was not sure if it requires a gasket sealant for all of the gaskets or just tighten them down.
The float chamber seem to be leaking and the engine still will not run. Fuel is flowing to the carb from the fuel pump.
1. Do I need to use a gasket sealant and if so what kind?
2. Any suggestions about keeping the engine running.
AnswerHi Lamar,
Use no sealant on the carb. The gasket on the float chamber can be reused if it is not broken. The plug in the bottom of the float chamber (if it has it) has an "O" ring on it to seal. The small gaskets on the side will not usually leak fuel. The left side can leak when running (choke assembly)
If it starts on ether and not run on the carb, you need to remove the carb and go through it. It is not hard to do as there are very few parts in it. You can just do a partial overhaul by removing the top.(four Phillips screws) (remove this before removing the carb) Lift out the long spring then the piston with the rubber diaphragm being careful not to damage the needle protruding from the bottom. Carefully examine the diaphragm for tears or holes.
Inspect the needle for damage. (It should be loose but lightly spring loaded to the rear)
Now remove the carb and drain any fuel out and remove the screws around the float chamber. (Do not remove the center plug in the bottom of the float chamber.) Clean out the float chamber and the bottom of the carb. Remove the pin holding the float to the carb by prying it out of it's two clip support. Unscrew the float needle and seat and examine it for trash and clean it and blow it out with compressed air if available. Clean everything and assemble the float, needle & seat. Hold the carb up so the float chamber surface is 90 degrees from level ground so that the float is hanging. This position will close the float needle but not compress the small spring in the needle. In this position the very bottom of the float itself should be about 17mm from the bottom surface of the carb where the gasket fits. Eye sight through the opening of a 17mm open ended wrench will do. Bend the tab on the float where it contacts the needle & seat to adjust. This sets the float level. This setting should not be changed to correct other faults.
Reinstall the float chamber and reinstall the carb on the manifold inspecting the gasket first.
Carefully install the piston in the carb being careful to get the needle into the jet hole. Note that a tooth in the diaphragm edge aligns with a groove in the top of the carb so that the piston can not rotate or be in the wrong position. Install the long floppy spring. Remove the cap in the top of the carb top. Install the top on the carb so that the raised point at the edge of the top is pointed to the front of the carb. Put about a table spoon of engine oil in the top of the carb. Insert the small piston on the end of the top cap into the top and you should feel resistance as you push the cap down and tighten it just hand tight. Reach your finger in the open front of the carb and lift the piston all the way up. You should feel the oil resistance. Then drop the piston and it should fall freely all the way to the bottom. At that point it should be ready to run. It is advisable to purchase a carb kit beforehand, so you can just replace the needle & seat and the gaskets as needed. In a minor kit you will usually not get a new main metering needle, just gaskets and needle & seat.
If you want to try it and have trouble or any questions you can contact me and I will try to get you headed in the right direction.
Howard
