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Followup To
Question -
I bought a 1973 SPITFIRE in non-running condition with a blown engine (no oil!). I have replaced the engine and installed a pair of SU carbs from a 1296 engine. The wiring harness in the engine compartment and dashboard was completely disconnected and there appears to have been a wire that melted around the area of the coil. I tried successfully starting the car for the first time in September and it ran pretty well for having sat a
Howard,
What was the jacket color on the wire that melted? Can't tell, it was melted so badly. I checked for a wire that would supply voltage with the key in the "on" position and used this to supply the coil.
What year engine did you use for the replacement? Same year and month as original
Did you reuse the stock points distributor or is the car running an electronic ignition? Original points type ignition
Right when it stops have you tried pulling the float bowl covers from the SUs to see if there is still gas there? Yes, plenty of gas.
Couple of possibilities, depending upon what your answers were.
1) Fuel starvation. Either a bad fuel pump or a blockage in the fuel line preventing the pump from pulling more fuel from the tank.
2) You're running a full 12V through a 6V coil and it's overheating. This is an interesting possibility. If this is the case I need to put in a dropping ballast resistor. I will check the voltage across the coil to see what is there, it should be about 6V when the car is running then? If it is 12V could I just use a 12V coil such as is used with electronic ignitions?
3) The distributor counterweights are gummed up with old engine blow-by and are sticking in position. No, they are quite free. I can see the ignition timing change with a timing light.
Cheers,
Jim
Answer -------------------------
2) You're running a full 12V through a 6V coil and it's overheating. This is an interesting possibility. If this is the case I need to put in a dropping ballast resistor. I will check the voltage across the coil to see what is there, it should be about 6V when the car is running then? If it is 12V could I just use a 12V coil such as is used with electronic ignitions?
If you put a voltmeter on the coil with 12V supplied..you'll see 12V across the coil.
Most of the coils are marked either "6V" or "12V", either on the label or on the flat end.
Another thought... you don't mention anything about the choke. If you open/close the choke does it have any effect on the engine stopping?
Cheers,
Jim
