QuestionHello Jim: Thanks for your reply! I guess I could have guessed your difficulty in assessment. We are in the same boat! I haven't yet seen the car either!lol Here is my thinking. Is there a "restorable" TR6 that should not be undertaken? Obviously not. The word restorable should imply, practical expense to value of a completed project. A decent condition TR6 is a desirable car. If you watch your expenses, do some of the work yourself, most "desirable cars" can be afforded a fair amount of restoration expense. Assuming the owner is willing to understand those expenses may surpass the saleable value. In my case, were I to put 13,000. into the car and only have a saleable value of 10,000., I would be just dandy with that.
Am I looking for a show car, hot rod, road rally car? No. I don't plan to skim the head, add a more radical cam, or bore it out to max. I am going with a conservative approach to the drive train. Give it better air flow and fuel intake, improved exhaust system, along with a standard rebuild. Maybe splurge on a rocker assembly.
I have read about the frame problems with cracks for the tr6 especially in original higher mileage cars.
I think we are agreed on mechanic shop labor. What I need to decide before moving on to other cars is what would be the HOURS involved in disassembling, and reassembling a TR6 frame and body?
Follow my logic. I need to do the interior complete with top, exterior paint, new bushings throughout (at the least new ball joints), new struts, brakes, mastercylinder, wheel bearings,not to mention what the rearend and tranny may need. (Love to afford a five speed, hard to find cars with OD., Off the shelf around $2000. I think for a 5 speed tranny) Here is the logic. With the frame (repaired as needed) blasted and powdercoated, and the body primed and painted throughout, does it make economic sense to go the extra expense? With what I listed being what I feel is a fairly standard list for a 35 year old car, having a frame and body in that kind(improved) of condition insures longivity beyond how the car was produced new. Assuming I keep it garaged and take care of it. To me it might be the logic of a tired engine needing a rebuild, and only replacing the piston rings, and not doing the also needed head job, and bearings.
A friend ( a welder, not auto) told me the frame is no big expense of time, if it is only cracks here and there, not "frame damage". The big expense he figured would be grinding, wire brushing, etc. pior to coating. I suppose I have the ability to bring the frame home and prep it myself (with guidance) after any needed repairs.
I look at TR sites all the time including The Register. I have a current cash position of up to $3000. available for purchase. That is not enough for a car in the condition I want. I don't want to part with thr TR7 (18,000 original miles, condition 9, around $6000.) until I have a TR6 road worthy. I can afford up to $400 to $600 a month to get this going. Yes, I have a wife to deal with regarding an outlay of cash! The additional funds one might normally have get complicated to explain.
I know, I need to see the car. I then need to return with an expert for a thorough inspection. Just hoping for some insight on the practicality of some of these unknowns. How long does it take to prep and coat a frame? How long does it take to free a frame from the average TR6 body? What would be the additional bodywork time to do a complete body prime and paint (assuming little or no metal replacement (Not a resurrection, just a restoration. If there is much metal replacement needed, inspection and interest is over)? Any input as to converting to fuel injection? Sorry to be so long winded. Trying to be as clear as I can. Thanks again! Tim
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Followup To
Question -
Hello Jim: Just looking seriously at finally getting a tr6. Had a gt (69) in the early seventies. I live in San Diego now and have always wanted the tr6.
Had an original owner describe his (covered) 70' tr6 as: "a potential restoration, no one has undertaken". As we went through the check list, I found little that doesn't need to be done. Hole in the soft top, poorly repainted fifteen years ago, )with after damage repaired and primered)
$3000. spent on carbs etc.(No, I don't know what else was done...no internal work, however) in 1994. Daughter ran it about 5 miles but couldn't get along with the clutch. Been sitting since!
Interior has weathered seats and worn carpets.
Here is the good news. I own a tr7 and have been learning about suppliers for the Brit cars. Ebay, Vitoria British, Robsport etc. There is a Brit junkyard about 20 miles from me. Recently, had new top windows and seats done in my tr7 by a very competent upolsterer, I would have do the interior.Ballpark, top and inside $1300 to $1500 over the phone.
Assuming there is rust (just a cover, not out of the weather) Odometer not working, owner estimates around 150,000.Here is the question:
What am I in for with a body off restore! New struts, brakes, rear suspension, front, and attention to the frame. Always in San Diego, dry but marine climate. Yes things left ot definitely rust. Basically, I am afraid to look! I am unqualified to understand the extent of effort and expense of this type of work on a Brit sports car. I have done a fair amount of engine rebilds previously (backyard assembler, tune-ups, brakes clutches, etc.)and plan on doing the rebuild with a good machine shop for guidance. I plan to spend $2000. on the motor. The option for fuel injection is another question? I know paint alone can run over $2500. Just trying to get a grip on how much some of the body, frame and suspension work is going to cost? Buying one already redone is easier, but sticker shock of $12,000. and well beyond is not affordable. I have room (and a engine stand) in my garage but work 55 to 60 hours a week. I am going to have to have most of the work done except the engine I will do.
Long winded, but I think complete! Your thoughts appreciated! Price? Well, he just wants someone to bring it back to health. Money was not a motivating factor for the seller. Thanks in advance! Tim
Answer -
Tim,
Trying to estimate a restoration cost long distance is like trying to build a ship in a bottle blindfolded. I doubt I'll come anywhere near hitting the mark, but I'll try.
First off, what is it you really want? A show quality TR6? Daily driver? 30ft car (good from 30 ft.. ;)?
The first step would be to get the car (driven or towed) to a shop familiar with TR6s and get the car up on a lift to determine the condition of a) running gear b) frame c) bodywork.
Then it depends upon what you find.
I've seen some of the $12+ cars at shows, and if the owner paid to have the work done then there's likely more $$$ into the car than the asking price. Figure you'll be paying between $50 and $100 per hour to have a shop do any work, and consider that a full frame off restoration can take several months if there are no major hitches.
Honestly you'd do better to find a running example and work from there. That way you'd have a better idea of what you're getting into.
You might try the classifieds at www.vtr.org as another source. And consider running cars from outside your immediate area.
Cheers,
Jim
AnswerTim.
Ok, basics.
Assuming NO accident damage.
Frames have two weak points. The diff mounts tend to crack under use (sometimes separating).
The frame also tends to rust where the rear suspension arms bolt through.
If there's no real damage figure on $100 to $250 to sandblast the frame and another $200 to $400 to powdercoat. You could probably wirebrush/sand the frame but you'll get better results having it all cleaned down to perfect bare metal for the powdercoating.
I won't guess at what the repair work to the tub might run, because it all depends upon just what work needs to be done.
Weak spots in a TR6 tub? The floors (normal in a convertible), rocker panes, around the headlights, trunk floor, and for some reason the top panel where the gas tank filler is tends to rust alond the fender edge seams.
If you expect to do much long distance touring a 5 speed or an overdrive would make life more bearable. Another option is to change the rear axle ratio.. as delivered the TR6 seems built to win drag races off the stop lamps. You can look for a TVR 2500M diff, TVR used the TR6 drivetrain in the 2500M.
Fuel injection? If you don't need to pass emissions tests it's a lot of work for not much improvement, unless you obsess over gaining another 2 or 5mpg.
I have seen a clean conversion done using the factory (Euro TR6) manifold and an aftermarket control system designed for a straight 6 Jeep.
There are other systems out there, again it's a function of how much $$$ you want to throw at the car.
Take a look at the car, get a professional appraisal to determine the amount of bodywork/frame work needed then make your decision. Just remember that a restoration can be a moneypit.
Cheers,
Jim
