QuestionQUESTION: i have a 96 golf and somtimes wen i unlock the car the doors unlock and
everything and i have power but the engine wont start ..i have to play with the
locks for like 30 min everytime and finally it will register to the engine then i can
start it ..
why is this happening it is very frustrating please help ...
ANSWER: This is caused by a faulty door lock, and car alarm switch in the drivers door. Since all of these cars came from the factory with alarms there is a provision whereby the ignition will not energize, until about 30 minutes has elapsed, unless reset, and overridden by the drivers door lock/switch combination. A new door latch may be necessary at the same time. Additionally the alarm should be going off, and making the horn beep, and lights flash, but since it doesn't sound, from your description, like that's happening either, I think both the door lock, and the door latch need to be replaced, at the same time. Hope I have been able to get you going in the right direction on this.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: yes i forgot to mention that the lights and alarm do go off but only sometimes .
and it seems to only happen wen its really hot out .
the blinking light on the door stays blinking wen it happens .but the doors do
unlock . just cant start
AnswerHi Donna, thanks for the additional information. I'm glad to know that the alarm is still hooked up...at least in part, but that still doesn't change the fact that the door lock itself is faulty. There is a switch that is behind the door handle(outer door handle), inside the lock/latch assembly. At the very least, the door lock itself HAS GOT TO BE rebuilt, maybe the latch will turn out to be OK, but the lock cylinder, the spring that goes around it, and the little "shovel" shaped end that engages the lock inside the door all have to be replaced. The new design parts do NOT work with the old ones so all of them have to replaced with new. The new parts will not come with the tiny springs that go into the lock cylinder to hold the little pieces that engage with the key, and the little pieces that engage with the key are all separate too. They are made from brass, and all have a single digit number stamped on them. They MUST be replaced in the exact same position they came out from on the new cylinder, and they all(along with the nearly microscopic springs) have to be lubricated with a special, thick, fibrous, and synthetic grease to provide a "permanent, or semi-permanent" repair.
You're in luck though, your car is a 1996, and it should still have complete lock in the passenger door, so if you get confused, or mixed up about the order of the little brass pieces, you can still get it right by getting the passenger door lock out, and consulting it.
The other part about the ignition switch has taken me a little time to think over, and I would NOT recommend a "shade-tree" mechanic to undertake. I believe you have a faulty ignition switch. The switch has 2 parts; one mechanical(where the key goes), and two electrical, with 3 separate circuit connectors, and one of them is probably melted(at least partially) from all the current it has to carry(makes it hot), so that will need to be rebuilt too. But, most importantly, the airbag on the steering wheel needs to be removed, then the steering wheel, then the clamshell, and only then are you at the 2 multifunction switches. They have to be removed, along with their electrical portions, and then you get to the ignition switch. But, let's back up for a second to the part about the airbag. It requires a specialized tool to remove, and they are DANGEROUS. Serious injury will occur should the airbag go off when being removed. My very best recommendation here is this...take the car to a trained professional to repair. The door lock isn't dangerous, but requires some special attention, and some special material to make work properly. If you want to do it, I'm sure you can, just don't try to mix parts to save money. All the parts to do the drivers door lock cost just about $60.00, but you won't get the microscopic springs, or the the little brass things. Take notes when you take the old one apart, and pay real close attention to detail. Some go in on one side of the cylinder, and some other ones go in on the other side of the lock cylinder. If you have to, then do that part yourself. However, when it comes to the ignition switch..and I'm almost certain it has to be replaced too, let a technician that has experience, and training, and the VERY special tools do that part. Just the labor for the ignition switch will be 3, or 3 and a half hours...so $300, to $350.00, plus the parts which could run another $200. But if the airbag went off while you were trying to remove it.....what then? I wish you the very best, Donna, I hope you will take my advice about the ignition switch. The mechanical part of the ignition switch is probably just fine. It's just the electrical portion that needs to be replaced, and I'm pretty sure that the biggest portion of the electrical connectors at the back of the switch(where "30 power" Goes/comes from) is melted, and needs to be repaired as well. Good luck.
