QuestionQUESTION: Hi, I have a 1987 745 Turbo. I recently ran into severe problems with my turbo and quickly found myself without a car. I also had access to a dilapidated 1985 744 GLE which happened to have a good engine.
To make a long story short, I hastily attempted to perform an engine swap, which was completed, though not before some grave mistakes were made. In the end I got it running but poorly. I know now that I've completely mucked up the hose configurations and have been looking without much success for some clear diagram of exactly what my engine's PCV system is supposed to look like. After hastily dismantling both a B230F and B230FT I seem to have mixed some parts and may be missing others. I need to know what hoses should be connected where with relation to the breather box, the intake manifold and throttle body, the nipple on the elbow connecting the intake hose to the throttle body, etc.
Symptoms currently include:
-sometimes rough idle, never idles lower than 1100rpm when its running at its smoothest. some times as high as 1500rpm.
-starts like a charm after its been sitting around for a few hours but once it's warmed up, stopping at starting becomes a problem. It runs extremely rough for the first 10 to 20 seconds during which time I can't touch the gas without killing the engine and starting the problem over then it clears up and I can drive again.
-rather poor gas mileage. I know that as cars get older they tend to lose some in the gas mileage department but not to this extent. I'd give you numbers but my car's speedometer and odometer have conveniently stopped working. I have yet to find a new wiring harness to replace the one that has rotted out.
-on occasion the engine will falter on take-off, some times badly enough to stall out completely.
-slight oil leak (I suspect this may be the aforementioned oil leak that is caused by a clogged PCV system).
That's about all the definable symptoms I can come up with. I know it's quite the plate full of problems and I have already conceded that I will need to rewire the car as well as performing some serious cleaning and replacing of parts in order to restore this vehicle to good health. I hope only that you can give me the guidance I need to see this through. Thanks very much.
ANSWER: Wow, I don't know where to start! Where do you live? I'm around Chicago and would come by to take a look at it. You might have to take some pics and let me see what I'm dealing with here. Did you transfer over the fuel injection control unit?
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QUESTION: I live in eastern Ontario close to Québec so I doubt you'd have the time to make that kind of a drive. Pictures however would not be a problem.
I have transfered both control units from the donor car (the unit beside the steering column at the firewall was a real pain) and verified that I had the correct AMM (incidentally they were identical) and I have been considering taking the wiring harnesses and fuse panel from the donor car and grafting them into mine because my car has had a number of problems due to short circuits.
Something else that just came to mind. The donor car's alternator had a 2-wire connector on the regulator which led back toward the firewall. My car on the other hand does not have this wire and the regulator on the back of the alternator looks slightly different, it has no connector on the back. Because my car did not have the wire to connect to the back of the alternator on the engine I swapped in, I decided to exchange the alternator and it seems to work fine. Any idea why the older alternator had that connection on the back?
ANSWER: I beleive you are speaking of the battery temperature sensor that was a useless component. There was a service bulletin years ago to just disconnect them.
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QUESTION: That actually makes alot of sense. I recall seeing some electrical component in the bottom of the battery tray in the donor car which my car didn't have in common. Anyways, I have not been able to follow up on this since I was nearly finished school when the car suddenly got a lot worse and I was forced to get my other car working for the time being.
After making certain changes to the vacuum hose configuration and eliminating as many vacuum leaks as I could find by either repairing or replacing hoses I found my car was running considearbly better, although the gas mileage was still atrocious. I drove the car for 4 days and marvelled at how well it was running until it up and died leaving me stranded between home and work around midnight. I got it going again by dragging it behind a pickup truck and clutch starting it a few times, drove it the rest of the way home and found it was running alright for the first half of the trip then suddenly was not running well at all, loss of power and a noticeably stronger smell of gas in the exhaust. Since then, every time I try driving it the performance is spotty. One moment it seems fine, the next it jerks and hesitates. It also goes through gas even faster than before and the plugs are always covered in thick black residue.
For the time being, I have stopped using the car completely until I have time to verify all sensors and electrical connections. I'm pretty sure I've got the vacuum hoses down but diagram would be nice in order to verify that. I'm sure the breather box is working normally and the flame trap is clean. Is there anything else I should check on?
AnswerVolvo has a tech website you can purchase factory manuals online.The rest of the manuals I've seen are usually a waste of money and not very helpful.You gotta start with the basics. Check fuel pressure,ignition components, oxygen sensor function,throttle body/switch adjustments.coolant temp sensor...Make sure that coolant sensor, for the fuel injection, is fully connected and the wires aren't damaged or pushed out, its a little tough to get at and its happened to me before, not getting it on properly
