Question"Tim, you very well may have bent the valves. Even if a tooth was off, it still would fire. Would have been cheaper to let a Volvo shop change your Timing belt. Lesson learned. Roger"
If valve damage occured, it happened when the tensioner pulley failed as I was driving at about 5 mph. It wasn't due to misalignment of the markings because I always checked for interference manually before cranking.
1. Is it typical for valve damage to be bad enough to prevent the engine from running?
2. What's a reasonable price for valve work?
3. What other damage should I look for (i.e. pistons) when I get the head off?
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Roger,
I found the two marked teeth on the crankshaft gear and instead of using the markings on the pulley, I aligned them with the engine mark. I think someone put the pulley back on wrong at 70k miles. I have the mechanical tensioner, and I'm following the directions, with it set slightly towards the left mark (it's about 30 deg F here).
When the pulley failed, the belt tried to run off of the pulley, and grinded off the notched/marked portion of the plastic timing cover. I drew crosses (at 45 deg) on both camshaft gears to help with aligning the marks (at 11 and 1 o'clock). Still no start. I re-aligned with the other TDC to make sure I was on compression stroke. It sounds like one cylinder tries to fire. Even if I was a camshaft notch or two off, would there still be some combustion?
I'm now thinking that there may be valve damage, so I took off the valve cover, but didn't rotate the cams because there's no support there. At first I thought a few valves were stuck down (cylinder 4-5), but there's a space there because the camshaft is lifting up on the unsupported end.
What are the symptoms of valve damage? Am I on the right track?
I'm baffled.
Many thanks,
Tim
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Thanks Roger, I can probably rig up a special tool to get the crankshaft pulley off. I was replacing the tensioner pulley (it failed baaadddly), and decided to figure out if I have valve damage before I go through the immediate trouble of replacing the belt. I thought I aligned every thing correctly and tried to start it and nothing happened. I took the spark plug out and smelled fuel. Then, I thought maybe I had aligned with TDC on the exhaust stroke, so I changed the alignment to the other TDC. Same result. By the way, am I right to assume that cylinder 1 is in the front of the engine (nearest to the crankshaft pulley)?
I must have the timing wrong. There's a slash on the crankshaft pulley, with pink paint about a 1/2 inch away. I aligned with the paint, and maybe thats wrong, but would I at least get a sputter?
Again... many thanks for your help.
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I've looked at some questions from the past about timing belt removal, and a lot of the answers have mentioned that the crankshaft pulley needs to be removed. What's frustrating is that the belt could be removed if it werent for this little stub near the bottom of the crankshaft pulley. There's a small gap, just barely too small to get the belt through sideways. Why would they do that?... Or, is there a way around it?
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Tim, Its easier to take the pulley off but you need the tools to do it. Cut the belt off if you are replacing it. getting it over the nub is easier going back on. I do these all the time and it will go on. I suggest taking the pulley off. It may be easier for you. Roger
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Tim, No special tool needed. Just remove the nut and the bolts and use a pry bar underneath it and pry it towards you. You should not be able to wiggle it off. How did you align it? Did you tension the tensioner? Or did you get lucky to get one with an automatic tensioner? Cam Marks are not up and down. Exhaust cam mark should be around 1 oclock and intake at about 11 oclock. The marks are on the timin cover. Those little notches at the bottom are what you line it up with. Yes, that is Cylinder 1. Roger
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Tim, you very well may have bent the valves. Even if a tooth was off, it still would fire. Would have been cheaper to let a Volvo shop change your Timing belt. Lesson learned. Roger
AnswerTim, yes, if the valves are bent there is no compression for the engine to run. Pistons will be fine. There are indents on top so they wont get damaged. Typical Valve job can be between 7-8 hundred bucks depending how many valves are bent plus resurfacing. Good Luck Tim, Roger
