QuestionHi, you answered a question for me a little while back about my idle adjustment. First off I just wanted to thank you again for doing this. I'm way better with the internet than I am with my car. I've looked long and hard, and you're pretty much the only person I've found that I can actually ask a question. Other than you there's just a bunch of sites with detailed information on problems that aren't mine.
Anyhow, this time around my problem is with my tensioner pulley. My father, who is far more mechanically inclined than myself, believes the bearings have worn out in it. It makes a horrible loud squealing sound almost constantly. At first it was only while the car was idling, but now it does it all the time. I've been scouring the online auto parts stores to see if I can find the bearings or a bearing kit of some sort, but so far I've come up with nothing. I may only be able to get it from Dodge. What I'm wondering though, is do you think I'd be getting in over my head trying to replace those bearings myself? My dad seems to think he could do it, and while I dont doubt his abilities, I also dont want to wear him out with the work. He had mentioned something about the bearings needing to be pressed in, and wasn't sure if he could do that himself. So basically, how tough is this job going to be?
Also, if you dont mind me slipping two questions in one form. Since I bought this car 10 months ago I've had to refill the clutch fluid about 4 or 5 times. I guess that could be anything from a busted hose to a worn out clutch, right?
Thank you very much for your help, again.
Jimmy
AnswerHi Jimmy,
It's nice to hear that I was of some help previously... lets see if I can keep my track record.
About the tensioner pulley... I hate to sound obvious but have you checked out the price of a new one? I know that the tensioner itself is recommended to be replaced at the 60,000 mile service interval but I'm not sure if the tensioner comes with a new pulley and I know that the tensioner isn't all that expensive (< $60 CDN) so I'm guessing that if the pulley is separate it probably isn't that expensive either.
Now about replacing the bearing, I'm sure that there is just a "normal" bearing in it but finding it could take a whole lot of time (again maybe it's cheaper to get a new one) but your best bet is to pull off the pulley (Be VERY careful that the timing belt doesn't move or you'll have to reset it and it's a REAL pain to set) and see if you can get the bearing out. If you can then all you'll have to do is contact a place that sells bearings and see if they have/or can get something to replace it with. The actual replacement is probably a press in (using a vice usually works) as you dad mentioned.
Here's a simpler option, pull off the pulley (again being careful of that timing belt) and see if a little oil could be used to get the noise to go away. If not at least you've got the pulley off and can have a look at the bearing (it may be glued/welded in and you can't replace it without damaging the pulley anyway).
Now about the replacement of the clutch fluid. If you have to put any fluid in the reservoir more than every couple of years you have a leak. Start with the obvious the tube/hose from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the transmission. You should be able to notice where it's leaking since you're putting an awful lot of fluid back. If you can't see where it's leaking you could clean everything up and then go for a drive on a dry day using the clutch a lot (staying out of puddles) and then have a look for fluid. If you still can't find any fluid the leak is internal to one of the master or slave cylinders and you'll probably have to take them out and inspect/test them.
Good Luck,
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
P.S. I hate to sound like a nag about the timing belt but with the engine being an "interferance" type (the pistons smash the valves if the timing is wrong) it's a good idea to know how to setup and check the timing before you attempt anything to do with the timing belt on these beasts. If you don't have one I'd suggest you purchase the shop manual from the dealer (< $100) if you're going to do much work yourself.
