Speedy Auto > Auto FAQ > Cars > Ford

Ford: 2006 Taurus - Transmission Cooler Tube leak, outlet hoses, 2006 ford taurus


Question
QUESTION: Hello Tim,

I have a 2006 Ford Taurus SE. I detected a leak in the transmission fluid cooler tubes, which seem to be made out of metal. If you search on http://fordparts.com, the Ford Part Numbers are 7C410 and 7B028.

After I turn the car on, transmission fluid starts to immediately pool between the 2 tubes at the horizontal part perpendicular to the floor, close to where a slight slope starts that eventually takes them toward the radiator. It drips at a nice clip.

I really hope you can help me with the following items.

Questions:

1. I looked at this from the top and the bottom, and the leak seems to be right in between the 2 tubes that seem to touch each other. I would like to replace only 1 tube if I can help it (money reasons). How can I tell which one of the tubes is leaking, without having to remove them?


2. There are 3 parts with part number 7C410. Their descriptions on fordparts.com are the only difference:
* with auxillary cooler; Radiator to auxillary cooler
* 3.0L Vulcan - without auxiliary cooler
* 3.0L Modular - without auxiliary cooler
In case this is the part I need, what's the best way to tell which one of those 3 above I really need?


3. How dangerous would it be to drive the car without the plastic cover that is under the radiator? The fluid drips onto that and then moves to the left and right, eventually going all over the place.


4. Will I also have to replace the hose clamps, inlet and outlet hoses, etc? (parts 7A031, 7A030, etc.)


5. Finally, is there a good online procedure for replacing these tubes? I tried searching and could not find one.


Thanks for all your help! I sincerely appreciate it.

Best,
JPG.

PS. I have a video of the leak but it doesn't really help; the quality is poor and you can't see much.

ANSWER: Hello,


The transmission cooler lines often leak on older vehicles.  While it is best to replace the lines, most customers opt to repair the existing lines for many reasons ( ie: availability, cost, and the fact they usually leak again in a few years.


First, I would look at what caused the leak.

Is it simply a fitting has loosened? or have the lines rubbed against something and rubbed through? or did road debris damage it)

then start the car and wipe the lines clean to find the source of the leak.

I would cut the damaged piece out and replace it with transmiision cooler hose of the same inner diameter to provide a snug fit. Transmission hose is a special composition for this application and is available at all parts stores.

use a piece long enough to extend 2" over the tube(s) and 2 steel hose clamps on each end. snug clamps well and check transmission fluid level and run the car looking for leaks.

You will have to tighten the clamps agaian in 1-2 weeks and check them at every oil change for drip free life.


You can replace the tubes, but there is no procedure that I have seen. Simply take them out, and put them in.

As for the plastic cover under the car, it may be there to reduce debris from coming up into the engine bay, to to assist cooling.  Either way, it is not critical.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks again Tim. Some follow-up questions:

a) what tool would you recommend for cutting the metal tube? I have a hacksaw - would it do? I'm concerned about damaging other parts or pulling on the tube too hard and loosening some fittings or clamps.

b) they did not have this part at a local dealer and other parts stores, but some guy told me to use Permatex Liquid Metal Filler. It says it's oil and gasoline resistant. The hole in the tube is very small (only about the diameter of a very sharp pencil). What do you think about using this filler? Would you be concerned about some particles getting into the fluid?

Thanks,
JPG.

Answer
If you wish to try the sealer or "seal-all", you need to be sure that the area is clean and rough it up with some emery paper so it has "tooth" to grab. also it must be dry!  spray it with a brake cleaner. let it dry well.

The small particles that get through will be trapped in the filter.

If this doesn't hold, I would use a mini- tube cutter, but a hack saw will also work, just flush the ends with brake clean.