GM-GMC: purchasing used truck, sequential fuel injection, gmc trucks


Question
I'm looking at two used GMC trucks to buy. One a 1993 1/2 ton ext cab 4x4 82,000 miles real clean. Can purchase for $11,000. Second 1997 GMC ext cab 4x4 sle 160,000 miles real clean. Can purchase for $12500.00 I can't decide which to purchase. Older with low mile or newer with high miles. can you help with information or advice?

Answer
Hi Owen - Whew!  This is a toughie!

But it still comes down to a few things.  How well were each of these trucks taken care of (what did the garage or AAA inspection look like), what kind of features are important to you, if something were to happen in the way of needed repairs, what kind of a situation are you in?

The inspection comparison should be a no-brainer, just get one done to make sure everything is OK.  Will they give out the owner's names to contact them and see if they can shed any light on past problems, or indeed, future ones.  Old owners will tell things to people that they won't tell a dealer.

The 97 has a bunch of things that are better, but that also means more possible things to go wrong, at a time when they were building better trucks.  Got that?  I mean that build quality was better in 97, but you still have things like the CPSFI fuel injection (Central Port Sequential Fuel Injection), Anti-Lock Brakes, 3rd door, which have more parts and so there is a possibility that these things can go wrong.  The 97 has the Vortec line of engines which means more power - 255 HP vs 200 HP, in the 350's.  Do you need the extra?

Typically, when you see a high mileage vehicle, the owner started it up and drove for a long while.  He/she didn't start up, stop at the post office. Start up, go to the coffee shop, stop.  Start up, go home, stop.  When the vehicle was started up, the only wear on the engine, for instance, was when it started up.  Very little is done while driving for the next few hours.  A long haul vehicle, can give you good service, IF it was maintained.

I have a good bud, who has a 99 2500 ext cab 4x4, with 120,000 miles on it.  He changes oil in EVERYTHING at 60,000 mile intervals - tranny, diffs, transfer case, and then he goes through the U-joints, spark plugs, brakes, all of that.  So, even though he has a very high mileage truck, he takes very good care of it - as you see for the number of miles he uses it, it is his office.

If the high mileage truck hasn't been looked after in that way, I'd completely look at the 93.  You know you will probably have to spend some money, but that's buying a used vehicle, (at least whenever I have had to buy one).

Check out trader.com, and kbb.com to get some comparison info on the trucks for pricing in your area.  Call a couple of dealers on the phone and ask as if you had these trucks to trade in or sell privately, what kind of money would you get, or should you ask for.  Then you will have an idea of what the dealers think too.

In the 93, a couple of things you should look for.  I guess it goes for the 97 too.  Check the engine for intake manifold leaks - very common.  Check inner and outer CV boots on the front diff.  Look in the glovebox for the option code C5S.  This means that you have a truck with the 7200 GVW 3/4 ton rear end -- heavier duty and bigger brakes.  The standard rear diff could be starting to make a howling noise at about 50 mph.  Speed up to 50 at level off, let lightly off the gas, and press again.  You could hear the howling noise, quit and start up again.  This means rear end bearings, in the range of 2-$400.  Be aware.

Make sure that the 4x4 works.  Stop, put the tranny in neutral and put the transfer case in 4 Low.  Then make sure the light comes on for the 4x4 and go for a drive, but no more than 25-30 mph.  Stop, tranny in neutral and take the transfer case into 2WD again.  A 4x4 front diff actuator is about $ 100, but there is an update that gives you almost instant 4x4 (from the new trucks!) for about $ 250 or so.


And lastly, a couple of things, that I do when I buy a used 4x4.  Change ALL fluids, including antifreeze.  Refill with synthetic where possible (differentials, for example).  Change all filters (tranny, fuel, air, oil), spark plugs,and check brakes.  You then have a starting point for your service.  You then know when the last time any of that was done, and you know that the proper levels are being maintained.

Hope this helps, and if there is anything else, drop me a line.


Automotively yours,

Dean