QuestionAhh the great question what the hell is wrong with this thing :o)
Let me try to explain what is happening... bear with me please.
I bought a 1990 Mitsu Galant 2.0L DOHC about a year ago. When I bought it it had a vibration that shook the car when in gear and stopped at a light. I nickel and dimed it because it was about to drive 2000 miles from Colorado to New Jersey. Replaced just about everything you could think of (plugs, wires, battery, filters ect..) the basic tune up items and most anything I could think of that wasn't too expensive. I made it to NJ just fine but after I got settled in shaking got worse so I had it looked at. Cost me $200 to find out that I didn't have the airfilter on right and to replace a couple of vaccume hoses.. still same problem when I finally got my car back from the geniuses.
About 6 months down the road my engine blew, dumped the oil and went boom.
Should have cut my looses but I got a used engine same type and had it installed. The problem didn't go away (shaking at lights). It has been about 5 months after I had the other engine installed and this thing is driving me crazy.
When cold and I start it up, the RPMs go way up to 3000, about 5 minutes later it is at idle 1000. I mean cold not as the surrounding temp either just the engine has cooled. While it is at it's 3000 RPMS (sounds like it is going blow it's self up) something is trying to bring the idel down and it forces it down. This is hard to explain. If you were inside you would see the rpm gauge bouncing up and down until cool. Like something is saying HEY YOUR IDLE IS TOO HIGH and trying to force it down but before it stalls out the idle comes back up. Sounds like reving your engine manually just the opposite way.
ANYWAY now the engine is running at 1 grand and I go to take off. I'm usually fine until I hit a light and then when I slow down and come to a stop 9 times out of 10 it will kick it's slef out of gear (AUTOMATIC TRANS) and RPMs rev up to about 2 grand and then puts itself back into gear and stalls. It is quite a sight to see this thing thinking on it's own.
Possible solutions I have been given. TRANSMISSION.. not many people think that but hey thought now that the engine is replaced and in why not let the tranny go.
Torque Converter.. This is the recent diagnosis I have receaved from one person who rode in it for the first time. I asked a mechanic I work with and he said it was possible that could be the problem (sound like a mechanic?)
I don't know if this has anything to do with it. Their is a srew on the injection system if I tighten it up all the way I kill the car, if I loosen it up my RPMS raise too high. Duh it is the air intake I imagine but I have a friend who has the identical thing in his honda and he showed me that his sucks more air but his RPMs don't change when my car would raise RPMs.
Hopefully I'm being clear enough and maybe you have found other gallants w/ this problem.
SOME INFO YOU MAY NEED...
Car has about 140,000 original miles as far as I know all major parts are the original unless I stated above. It is a 1990 Mitsu Gallant GS 2.0L DOHC, AUTO TRANS, with all the extra gadgets (ac, pw steer, pw locks, wind, mirr, sunfoor etc..,)
AnswerHello Jason...
It is not so easy to suggest a solution without checking your vehicle.. still I'll try my maximium to help u...
First of all RPM going high when engine is cold is a normal thing in galant.. its just because of the automatic choke which is on when the engine is cold and releases when it warms up... still if your engine RPM is going to 3000 when cold, it has to be adjusted to bring the cold rpm down.. I don't think there is anything wrong with your tranny.. and I would advice u to take your vehicle to a good mechanic and check if there are any error codes... and also check/adjust your timing with a timing light. The cause of vibration can also be due to wrongly installed balance rod belts.. but since both the engines are showing the same problem chances for this is remote... hope your engine/transmission foundation bushes are alright... other factors to check are, fuel pump (check if there is enough pressure in the line with a pressure guage), ignition coil, distributor, high tension cables, spark plugs etc.. also check your wiring for any cuts or burns... actually I believe that the problem is not something very ig as u think... and its is not with your engine or transmission... hope this helps... if not or if have anything more to tell or ask u r welcome do follow up...
regards
Alex
