Question-------------------------
Wow! It's like talking to a Volvo encyclopedia! Thanks for the good info, I think I will probably make the purchase. I have replaced entire electrical harnesses before so I will be up to the task should the car need it. It is a 4 speed manual with overdrive so like you said, that's a plus over an automatic also. I forgot to ask in my first email whether or not extreme cold (the car will be in Minnesota most of the year) will affect starting, etc. I would think the Swedes must have considered cold weather in their design process. Any comments on cold weather (it's -1F there tonight) prep that might help it through the winter would be appreciated. Thanks again for your input. A++++
Followup To
Question -
I am looking for a fairly inexpensive but reliable college car for my son. I just looked at a 1983 240GL SW on a dealer lot. It has 185K miles on it but the basic condition of the car was quite good considering it is 22 years old. What I'd like is your opinion on the reliability of the standard 5 speed 4 cyl engine. I can do most work myself but this car will be shuttling back and forth from Minneapois to Seattle a couple of times a year and I'd like to hear that it is a strong runner. Do you think I can get another 100K miles out of it? It looks like Volvo used/uses a 4cyl. engine as std. on most cars made in the 80's and 90's. Also, anything in particular I should look out for when I go test drive it and dig around under the hood? Thanks.
Answer -
I personally like the 240 series between 1979 and 1985, because I think they have the perfect mix of amenities without the hassle of newer computerized systems that can decrease reliability. I think the trick with Volvos is to find one that has been fairly well taken care of (regular maintance, oil changes, etc). If you can, I think you'll be getting one of the most rock solid cars ever made. Early 80's Volvos used either a 2.1L 4 cylinder (B21F) or a 2.3L version (B23F and later, B230F). These are considered some of the most reliable engines ever conceived, and will regularly go 400K without any major rebuilds (hard to believe for people used to American cars). My 1980 has over 250K without any issues). In fact, an earlier version of the engine currently has the world record for car mileage with a little over 2 million. The transmissions, especially the manual M46 have similar reputations (expect for the electronic overdrive, which requires a bit of love to keep up). The car frame usually rusts off before the drivetrain on these cars gives out.
With that said, there are a few issues to be aware of. Before 1987, the engine wireharness had a factory defect which caused it to flake off insulation after a few years, creating a mess of electrical shorts (although usually minor, like flickering instrument lights). A careful examination of the engine wiring is in order for any Volvo you consider, keeping an eye out for a replaced harness (best case scenario). I had to replace the harness on my car, which I did in an afternoon for about $150, so its not a huge deal, but important to consider as it can be the cause of 90% of issues you might encounter.
The AC systems in the early cars were also prone to problems, as the compressors would sieze and have to be replaced. In fact, unless the AC of a car you look at has been replaced and upgraded to R134, I guarantee that it won't be in working order. It doesn't affect the driveability of the car, but something to keep in mind if cooling is important. Again, kits are availble and easy to do yourself (I just finished installing a rebuilt compressor in my wagon).
As I mentioned before, the electronic overdrive on the manual M46 was also prone to problems, usually because the wiring flaked like the engine harness, causing shorts, or the overdrive relay gave out. Both are minor if you are a decently experienced home mechanic, and cheap to fix in a few hours, but something to think about. The automatic transmissions didn't have as many issues, but if you go that route, make sure to get one with overdrive (some did and some didn't). The overdrive gave a 4th gear and is a must at highway speeds. If at all possible, I recommend a stick, simply because the engines don't have much power, and you lose even more if you have an auto. Plus, they're much more fun!
Thats basically my list of the most serious issues you'll encounter with these cars. Other then that, I think they're great, and probably the saftest non-airbag cars on the road. Keep in mind that a little under tree maintance will be needed for minor things, so it won't be exactly like a set-and-forget japanese import. For me, it became a labor of love very quickly, as I found there was something special about these cars. I've never been left stranded, and expect to get to at least 450K. Hope that helps, if you have any other questions, please let me know. I'd love to give my opinion on cars you come across in your search, so feel free to bounce them off me at some point. Good luck!
AnswerIf the car is in good mechanical order, I've not gotten the sense in my experience that cold or wet weather makes any difference at all. I've certainly never had problems (although I do live in California), but I've started the car many times below freezing without any issues. Obviously a good anti-freeze and a good oil level (to keep pressure up) are key, but I wouldn't say there are any cold start issues.
