Motorcycle Safety & Driveability: U-Turn in the road and stalling, friction zone, clutch control

Question
Hi Pam,

Yesterday I did my CBT (Compulsory Basic Training (UK)) and failed on my U-Turn. I ended up half a foot away from riding head on into a brick wall.

Yesterday was also my first day of riding, and I did pretty well on my on road training (riding on the public roads) and I didn't crash into anything.

I seem to have problems finding the biting point in the bike so I keep stalling at lights and stop signs ect.

So basically, my question is, How can I improve on U-Turns, as I do retake on Saturday and I want a pass :)
Also, how can I tell where the biting point is, and how to pull away in a more smooth manner.

Note: I found shifting, corning at speed, driving in traffic ect to be alright, it's just the more technical turning that made me a mess.

Anyway, and help will be a great help.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Regards,

Sanial

Answer
U-turns can be a problem for even some of the best riders. They aren't easy and require frequent and ongoing practice.

Clutch control can also be a problem for otherwise proficient riders.

And you won't be surprised to find that the two problems can be related.

First, make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. Too much slack in the cable can make it nearly impossible to use smoothly. Have a mechanic look at it.

Next, understand that a wet clutch (standard on most bikes except Ducatis) is designed to be slipped (feathered, rode, whatever term you choose). Meaning that holding it just at the biting point (generally called friction point or friction zone) for long periods of time doesn't hurt it or burn it out.

The secret to better clutch control (and 1/2 of the secret of U-turns) is keeping the clutch in the friction zone longer. Think of the clutch as a volume knob you slowly adjust, not an on/off switch.

To start out smoothly, release the clutch and get it just into the friction zone, then hold it there. Apply some throttle. Release it just a little more. Apply more throttle. Release just a little more. And so on. Stretch it way out in time. Once you get the technique down and you can start smoothly in, say, five or ten seconds, you'll be able to do it quicker and quicker as your muscles memorize the motions and before you know it you'll be able to smoothly release the clutch in a half second or so.

Now, to execute a brilliant U-turn requires two things: superior clutch control and proper head and eye placement. This takes lots and lots and lots of practice! For a new rider it may take several months of weekly practice to get it right. I'd guess that to stay sharp, after riding for 20 years, I still have to practice this for at least 6 hours a year.

U-turns are best executed with the clutch in the friction zone. Use the friction zone, not the throttle, to manage your speed. The other trick is to turn your head and look where you want to go. You don't want to go on the ground, so don't look there. You don't want to go to the brick wall, so don't look there. Turn your head all the way around, look back over your shoulder, and focus your head and eyes on where you want your bike to be in about four seconds.

Set up a couple cones or markers in an open parking 20-40 feet apart and start doing figure eights. As you round each cone, stay as close to it as you can. At first you'll be able to stay within maybe 15-20 feet of it. But as you get more familiar with the technique, you'll find yourself turning tighter and tighter and tighter, and may eventually get to the point where you can lock your handlebars and turn at will. A good turning radius on a small street bike can be as small as 6-8 (12-14 diameter) feet. A larger bike (like the big cruisers we ride over here) should still be able to turn in 8-10 (16-20 diameter) feet in the hands of a skilled rider.

Pat