Vintage Cars: 1971 MGB Electrical problem, low beams, high beams


Question
QUESTION: I just purchased a 1971 MBG in excellent condition.  When I push the light switch to the first position, the left side running lights come on.  When I push the switch to the second position, the remaining lights come on except the headlights.  The bright beams light up when I throw the beam switch on the steering column.  Also, the turn signals do not blink (but stay lit when the turn signal is on), and when I press the brake, the instrument panel right turn signal light comes on until the brake is released.  Thoughts?

ANSWER: Goodness, what a combination of symptoms! First off, also try Moss Motors forum or other MG forums. You may well find someone more expert there.

If there is a single cause here, it is almost certainly the main switch, which in earlier Bs (I think up to 73 or so) carried the whole lighting load, which is a lot of amps for a contact. You can possibly take the switch apart and clean the contacts, but watch out for springs and things falling out. And a problem with that explanation is that the flashers don't go through the light switch.

If it's a combination of faults things get much more complicated. I first note that almost all the lamps work, except the low beams, even though at the wrong time! That tells me that power can get to them, the light fittings are probably all grounded (earthed) OK, and the harness and connections at the lights are probably OK.

The only things not functioning at any time are the low beams and the flasher unit. I would start with those. First, clean the contacts with sandpaper, and also (for the flasher unit) loosen it, grind it against the sheemetal to get a good ground and retighten. Then find out whether the low beam contacts in the headlamp connectors are getting voltage (a 12V testing lamp will do). If there is no voltage at the low beams, suspect your beam switch. (Since your high beams can come on, the beam switch must be at least be getting power in.)

Overall, I am also inclined to ask what might have been done on the car recently? A paint job (which can easily mess up grounding all over)? Was the car rewired, or the harness broken into? Any new connections into harness lines will definitely be suspect: bullet or spade connectors, etc., especially if the wires are not soldered into the connectors (crimps are lousy), or the connections are dangling out in the wet and get corroded (e.g. running lamps/flashers fittings).

Sorry not to have anything more specific.

JJ



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for the information.  It was a combination connections and grounds through out the car.  Question:  The previous owner told me to use High Octane gasoline.  Do I need to also us a lead additive?

Answer
Congratulations on going through all the possibles and fixing it!

For that car, and especially that age (likely some carbon buildup in the head etc), YES on the premium gas, and very likely YES on the lead additive. (But note that some additives also increase the octane, so you might be able to save a $ or two there.) These cars were built on the assumption of lead in the gas providing some lubrication for the valves, but it is possible that a previous owner had a new head or valves and seats. If not, or you don't know, I would use the additive. Jo