The transmission in your 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo converts engine revolutions to a usable form of rotation torque to propel your vehicle down the road. This is done by using a gearing reduction to provide high torque using a high gear ratio when first beginning to move and a lower gear ratio to provide for higher speeds on the freeway. Eventually, there may come a time when you will need to change your transmission.
Park your Jeep and firmly engage the parking brake. Place the jack under the front frame cross member and lift the Jeep high enough to provide room to work comfortably. Place a jack stand under the frame behind both front wheels and lower the car onto the stands. Place the jack under the rear differential housing and lift the Jeep to the same height as before. Place a jack stand under the axle housing on either side of the differential and lower the car onto the stands. Turn the bolt or nut on the negative battery terminal counterclockwise to loosen and remove the terminal by twisting and pulling straight up.
Rotate the four nuts securing the driveshaft to the differential yoke by turning them counterclockwise using a wrench. Remove the nuts and U-bolts. Push forward on the driveshaft, lower the rear of the shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transmission tailshaft. Wrap the end of the tailshaft in a plastic bag to limit leakage.
Loosen the bolts on the transmission oil pan by turning them counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Remove the bolts from one corner of the pan. Insert the screwdriver between the pan and transmission body and twist to separate the pan from the transmission. Loosen the remaining bolts enough to allow the fluid to drain out after placing the drain pan and extension under the transmission.
Remove the bolts securing the transmission cross member to the frame and the center transmission mount to the cross member by turning them counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. You will need to hold the bolt heads on the cross member to frame the bolts while turning the nuts.
Remove the speedometer cable by removing the bolt locking it in place with a socket and ratchet, turning the bolt counterclockwise and pulling the retainer and speedometer cable from the transmission. Remove any electrical connectors and vacuum lines from the transmission. Remove the cooler lines by turning the fittings counterclockwise using a flare nut wrench. Disconnect and remove the linkage. This is usually accomplished by removing clips or pins using the long nose pliers.
Remove the transmission pan completely and drain completely. Replace the pan by holding it in place and threading a few bolts in by hand. A minimum of four are needed. Place the jack under the transmission pan with the plywood piece between the pan and jack pad. Raise the jack enough to support the transmission. Align the jack so it rolls front to rear.
Remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine by turning them counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Twist and pull up on the dipstick tube and remove the tube. Use a piece of wire to suspend the starter without removing it.
Remove the four bolts securing the torque converter to the flexplate by turning them counterclockwise with a wrench. Turn the torque converter using the flywheel wrench to access all four bolts.
Grasp the transmission firmly and push towards the rear to separate it from the engine. You can use a prybar to help disconnect the two components. Once the torque converter is clear of the flywheel, lower the jack and roll the jack and transmission out from under the car.
Reverse Steps 1 through 9 to install the replacement transmission
