How to Build a Ford 302 Engine for High RPMs

Building a Ford 302 engine for high performance takes time and money. Buy only the the parts listed, as these are designed for high RPMs. The RPM range for this application is up to 8000 RPMs. To effectively achieve a high-RPM motor, it is necessary to dramatically increase the volume of air entering and exiting the motor and at the same time deal with the increased stress.

Things You'll Need

  • 4-bolt main block Set of ARP bolts for the rebuild Set of stronger rods, 4340 steel in I beam or H beam (Scat, Eagle, Crower, Summit, all of which are balanced and shot-peened for strength) Crank scraper Pistons--Speed Pro, Wiseco, Summit, J&E, Ross or Mahle, 9:5:1 flat top Double roller timing chain and sprockets Oil restrictors Fluid damper harmonic balancer Windage tray Set of higher flowing heads such as Edelbrock, Dart, Brodix, World Products or Air Research Set of titanium push rods High-volume oil pump Deep-sump oil pan and pickup tube Cam shaft --competition cams with advertised duration 282/290 with lift at .565/.574 Cam protector kit to keep cam from walking and contacting the block Valve train stud girdle to keep the studs from flexing and causing material fatigue Vacuum booster bottle so that the power brakes work with reduced vacuum MSD distributor with MSD box with rev limiter Set of Chiles and Albert total seal rings, or equivalent. These are gapless rings. Crankcase evacuation valves and breathers Set of headers
  • Check the cylinders for size, scoring, taper and ridge prior to purchasing the pistons. Take an inside mic and rotate it as you go down the cylinder and look for taper or out-of-round situations on all cylinders. Check for size--as long as the piston holes are no more than 3 thousandths oversize, they are OK. Finally, feel for a ridge at the top of the cylinder. If the piston holes have a ridge or are more than 3 thousandths oversize, they will need to be bored.

  • Install the oil restrictors pursuant to the instructions on the package. Put some Teflon tape on the plugs before installation.

  • Turn the block over and install the crank using STP on all the bearings. Install the caps using the ARP bolts.

  • Pour STP into the oil pump, then install the oil pump.

  • Turn the block to the right-side-up. Put the cam sprocket on the cam. Lube the lobes with STP and install the cam.

  • Install the double-roller timing chain after oiling with motor oil. Make sure the timing marks are lined up. Install the timing cover.

  • Install the rings on the pistons with the total seal ring on top. Make sure that all the gaps are staggered 180 degrees and away from the pin.

  • Install a bearing in the first piston's connecting rod and lube with STP. Pour some oil over the rings and install the ring compressor and install the rings. Put a piece of hose on the connecting rod bolts so you do not to scratch the cylinder. Be sure to orient the pistons with the arrow or mark facing forward as you install them.

  • Turn the engine over and install the crank scraper and the oil pan.

  • Install the rear main seal with a little oil on the lip of the seal and some RTV on the block.

  • Submerge the lifters in oil for at least two hours to let the air escape and oil to fill the lifter in preparation for installation.

  • Install the heads with the ARP bolts. Be sure to follow the proper sequence to tighten the bolts. Start in the middle and work out in an X pattern and use three stages of 30 foot pounds, 60 foot pounds, and finally the torque suggested by the manufacturer.

  • Install the lifters and then the windage tray, followed by the pushrods and rockerarms.

  • Install the remainder of the items in the order they were removed. The MSD distributor and box come with easy wiring instructions; however as a note, be careful around an engine running with this system. It has incredible power and fires a million sparks at 70,000 volts average and can jump a big arc, knocking you backward.

  • Adjust the valves and install the stud girdles.